Celebrate Christmas in Santiago

I'm a very lucky lady :)

This was my first Christmas away from my family and I approached it with bravery, selfishness and excitement. Great mix of emotions, right?

Christmas with my family is a BLAST! Since I wasn't there this year, I sent them the following video:

Christmas 2012 from Jaclyn Karnowski on Vimeo.

A typical Christmas in my family can be summarized into: holiday spirits to spike the laughter :)

I bake a lot. My mom has a fully stocked kitchen with ingredients, gadgets and the space! 

My pups and I snuggle, we go for chilly winter runs together and Ginger likes to chew on my Christmas shorts. 

My Mom's sister and her family come to our house to celebrate on the 25th and all we do is eat, drink and play with the many dogs that we love! 

My cousin Scott: can be found with at least 1 dog, a book and snazzy glasses. 

My cousins, sister and I get to spend quality time together. Scheming new chapters of our life, sharing great memories of the year, drinking lots and laughing! 

Of course, we eat like kings and queens. Prime rib. Red wine. Potatoes and leafy winter salads. Lots of Christmas cookies (thanks Em! and Mom!). Don't forget we eat homemade cinnamon rolls and quiche to start the day…with Mimosas, of course. 

But back to Chilean Christmas… 

I forgot to take pictures! But, I want to thank the beautiful and fun-loving families that opened up their home and hearts for me! Pablo's Mom & Dad, his 2 sisters and their husbands and of course, the sobrinos. Suzy and her husband hosted us at their beautiful home, a little outside of the city where we ate, laughed and played with all the new presents! I brought homemade truffles: chocolate-orange liquor, coconut-chocolate, honey dates with nuts (raw) to share and I think they liked 'em… 

A Chilean Christmas goes something like this… 

• We celebrate on the 24th with dinner, presents and family 

• Dinner is between 10PM - midnight! Our was "early" this year but it wasn't before 10PM

• MY FAVORITE: Kids go "searching" for el viejito pascuero (Santa Claus) in the neighborhood. We go searching, on foot and by skateboard, around the neighborhood while the busy elves of the house place presents under the tree. "I saw his beard!" "Over here, I heard a reindeer." Reindeer in the heat of Santiago… maybe Santa should get some llamas. 

• The 25th is the day of rest. No one does ANYTHING all day. So of course, I hosted a BBQ at the house with my new Colorado friends, German friend, my Chilean sister Andrea,  a few folks of the house and my Chilean main squeeze, Pablo. 

Pablo was a little jealous because his family went out of their way and gave me presents! That was so unexpected and so sweet. Despite being thousands of miles from my family, I felt loved, shared the joy of the day with others and ate well. 

Saturday in Santiago: Avenida Italia

What better way to spend a Saturday than strolling the trendy design area of Barrio Italia? It's located close to the Santa Isabel metro but it's a hidden gem.

My unfortunate answer: trying to get my house key copied. Why? Well, I lost mine. But you should know that to get into the house, you have to open a locked gate. So, I clearly had the keys in order to get into the house. Hiding somewhere only to be found when I make a copy from my roommate's keys. 

I headed to Lider (Wal-Mart's invasion into Chile) where there is a key copy guy. Of course, he didn't have the key he needed to make a copy. What?? Any other place close by? He says, "Maybe down Santa Isabel?" Maybe.

Since moving here, I realize that I find the place I need to be without using a map or reading directions. I head toward the metro station closest to the place, and miraculously find myself there. So, I figured I would meander the streets and find a place. You do know that 80% of businesses are closed on Saturdays, right? I was taking a big risk of even hoping to find a place.

But I did find a hip and hidden section of Santiago very close to my house! I'm anticipating more Saturdays in this classy shopping-restaurant district. 

A little restaurant with great outdoor seating

Like most of Santiago, the best of the city is hidden, off the beaten path and full of history. Barrio Italia is just that!

See the presents on the building? So cute!

When you walk through that entryway, you walk through an artfully designed hallway that introduces you to a few tiny stores of Chilean clothing designers, things for the home, baby clothes stores, and usually a little cafe with artesenal ice creams and yummy cakes. There are quite a few blocks lined with these buildings. Each street-side doorway led to colorful little shops and cafes.

With 2 or 3 small stores and a cafe, each building surprises you with fun, artsy finds! 

Hidden from the streets, my curiosity led me through the hallways and doors. I had a blast window shopping. As my first Christmas away from home, it is a weird feeling watching others spend tons of money on presents for others. It makes me think about how we spend, spend and spend money. When really, I want to spend, spend, spend time with my family and friends. 

On the outside, the building looks like an old, worn down front. Inside, color!  

The stores were FULL of people shopping for Christmas. There were Patagonia lotions and creams, art for the home, cute clothes and just lots of fun finds. If I were to decorate a home here, this is where you'd find me (and all my money).

It was about 80 degrees outside, and I was hot. 

Guess what I found? Gelato!

Apple-Basil artesenal gelato. YUM! 

Oh, wondering if I got a copy of the house key? NO! I even went on a run to the Costanera Center, the go-to place for ANYTHING you want or need. And there was no key copy place! At least I got a good run in. Because later that night, my roommate and I went to the uber-popular restaurant La Jardin to eat delicious stone pizza and drink a Mango Mojito. 

Overall, a great Saturday in Santiago! 

Guns and Reactions to US Violence While Living in Chile

Indeed, the very hairs of your head are all numbered. Don't be afraid; you are worth more than many sparrows. Luke 12:7 

The unfortunate and horrific tragedy that occurred in Connecticut is yet another slap in the face to the US culture, heavily influenced by the stupidity of the gun lobbyists and the government. I usually don't share my politics, and don't really want to. But today, in the face of yet another shooting at a school that took the lives of children and adults, I can't keep my anger or sadness inside.

Guns are an unnecessary social status in the United States. Why is it socially acceptable to own a gun? Why do people living in a city or a town feel the need for a gun? Do you hunt your food? Then have a hunting rifle or bow and arrow. A semi-automatic gun or whatever they are called have one purpose: to inflict harm on a human being.  We are the only species that kill each other. 

Why did I leave the United States? Why did I want to live abroad? 

Our culture is messed up. I couldn't think straight when I was numb to school shootings, kidnappings, murders, gang violence and rappers swearing and putting down others. At CrossFit one day, there was a freaking shoot-out in front of me. We witnessed a guy shoot a woman's hand. WHAT. That is NOT a memory I wanted. 

Want to know something? I was numb to the Colorado shootings. Why? Because that day I ate a normal breakfast, I probably went for a run, and checked my email. Sure, I called friends from work to find out of we had students or staff at the movie theater that night. I sent emails out to colleagues, begging for information that our kids were not there that night. But, I did not go comfort the families or see if I could help in some way. I went to bed that night the same person that I was that morning. I'm ashamed by that. I don't want to live with that lack of feeling to such a terrible tragedy. 

Living Abroad

I'll never forget when 3 Australians asked me, "Will we get shot if we go out in Miami?" We were sitting at a restaurant in Santiago, Chile and I had to explain why they'd most likely be okay. When I was living in Phoenix, I remember waiting in line to pay for gas and seeing a man fuel his car with a gun on his waistband. I immediately became uncomfortable. So, someone might be carrying a gun when you're at a club in Miami. If they have a license to carry, and if the state allows for concealed weapons in public places…. 

Want to check your state gun laws? 

Chileans don't have school shootings. There aren't problems with guns or news reports of gun violence. When people have asked me about the Aurora shooting this year - and now about the elementary school - they are stunned, speechless. I see more concern in their faces than in my own "patriots." What is humanity if we don't see that our uniqueness is what makes each person valuable and necessary? 

What's the worst that could happen here? Someone will steal your iPhone out of your hand. Chileans grieve for the families that lost their loved ones. They want to know WHY? HOW? WHAT IS GOING ON UP THERE? 

So do I. 

My faith in God and trusting in his strength is what has comforted me in the past and will continue to do so. He made every person irreplaceable. Let His Word bring you comfort. 

2 Corinthians 1:3-4 
Praise be to the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, the Father of compassion and the God of all comfort, who comforts us in all our troubles, so that we can comfort those in any trouble with the comfort we ourselves receive from God

Best of Chile: Completos and PDA

Two things that should never appear in the same sentence. Completos and PDA in Chile are two culture classics that you can't escape.

There aren't words.

But yet, it is totally "normal" to see a couple going it at, in broad daylight, in the public parks throughout the city. I just haven't seen two attractive people, I seem to find the ones that make Married with Children seem classy. I wonder how Chilean film rates their movies for sexual content if this is what we see everyday, anywhere in public spaces? 

Lindsay was disgusted every time she saw a couple laying down on the lawn, making out or rolling around. She spotted this couple and immediately snapped a few photos, out of shock. Good eye, Linds. 

What Do You Order to Drink in Chile?

Yo voy a tomar….

Just got to Chile and need a drink after that 12, 16 or 20 hour flight here? Heading to Patio Bellavista with the rest of the tourists to grab a drink. But…what should you drink? 

You might think of Chilean wine: the famous Carménère wine; the lost grape of France, found in Chile.  Or another one of their wines from the Casablanca Valley (shown below). A decent bottle only costs $5 US. 

I even did the tour and learned about the wine. The valley here is drier than Napa. The red grapes are crushed and the white wine grapes are smashed differently. The reds sit in the oak barrels longer than the white wines stay in their tanks. The oaky flavor comes from the oak of the oak barrels. Lots of learning con caña. 


But I can't remember it all because I drank too much Piscola the night before. Piscola? What is that? Let me tell you. The Pisco is the liquor - made from fermented grapes - I think. It is the ONLY drink option at house parties, BBQs or sometimes, a bar or club. Chileans love their Pisco. It is never my first choice but sometimes my only option. You should never take a shot of it (I haven't). And you don't drink it on the rocks.

Vodka is expensive here. Whiskey: you'll see Jim Beam or $40 for a bottle of Johnny Walker. Rum: too many college nights with the Captain, so I don't want to think about drinking it here. Tequila: that's Mexico, Arizona and anywhere else in the US. I shouldn't generalize (but, why not?) but maybe Chileans think tequila is too spicy. They do think that jalapeños are very spicy.

There are different % and a few different brands. But, the proof below is that there are 2 main brands by people old enough to purchase decent liquor. Mistral or Alto de Carmen. This is the table the morning after a Chilean party. What you can't see are all the empty 2-liter Coke bottles. 

Coke and Pisco. Cheap and almost every Chileans will drink it. If girls bring the drinks, you've at least got Coke Light (Diet Coke in SA) instead of full-on Coke. It is so heavy, how do they drink so much Coke!? Find one that doesn't and you win a prize! They are very proud of their Pisco - so, you've got to try it. I just can't wait until I'm at a bar that thinks it is okay when I order my vodka + tonic with a lemon slice. And a margarita on the rocks, no salt. Yum.

You do have another option with Pisco. And that is the Pisco Sour. It is a citrusy-very, very sweet drink made with egg white, sugar and lemon/lime. Have 2 and you are done for the night. In Denver, Madison Street makes them - go ahead and try it!

Beer? Everyday, cheap beer: Escudo, Cristal. Better "artesenal" beers: Austral, Kuntsmann, Kross

The new(er) trend that hasn't reached a tipping point yet are the cervecerias: crafted beer. There are some good ones, especially in Southern Chile. I'll try a few more before I tell you about those…

**Thanks, Jen for reminding me to write about something SO important: drinking in Chile! 

Reflecting: Refueling in Chile

Everyone asks, "Why did you come to Chile?" "Por qué estas aqui?"

Great question. For the first few weeks, I just soaked up the dancing, drinking, meeting new people and exploring the city. Now the question wakes me up at 8AM, walks with me to my English classes and simmers as I cook dinner.

Ever wonder if you are operating at your best? Last year, I tried to explain my burnt-out self to friends and family by saying, "I feel like I've given all my energy, there is only a little bit left in my toes. Nothing is filling that back up." Sure, I have my faith, absolutely fantastic friends that I miss everyday, a great new CrossFit gym, an inspirational church and the Rockies have been my playground for 3 years.

Just like with teaching, I need to assess where my energy has been and where I want it to be. Then, get there through discipline, determination and using my support systems.

At the end of last year, here's where I was:

"Burned Out." A free website told me what I already knew. That 35% felt like 19%. 

This morning, sitting with my Nescafe on the patio?

So, in the spirit of my rejuvenation and refueling, I'd like to thank a few people that kept me afloat last year when I wanted to walk out. 

Note: my usual sarcasm is definitely paused as I genuinely want to shout-out how much you mean to me. When I see you all, you all will get bear hugs and lots of love from me :) 

@my parents: You define supportive and unconditional love. Me heading to Chile (again)? Not exactly what you dreamed and planned for when I was a wee-tot. But you trust me and are still loving me. Thank you!

@Laura - We became friends when we both were at our most-stressed and least-energetic times in life. Then, you recognized that I wasn't myself last year and handed me an opportunity to rejuvenate. This year would not have been possible without you! Can't wait to celebrate love and friendship in Arizona with you and Seba in June! 

@Emily - coffee, scones and nights out in LoDo scratch the surface. You are honest, thoughtful and genuine. The shock on your face when you learned that I don't have a 5 or 10 year plan even scared me into action (even though I can't brainstorm in straight lines). Can't ask for a better roommate turned lifelong friend! 

@Kathleen - You are the only friend that 100% pushed me to go to Chile. Then there's the Bloody Marys. Gourmet Food. Bachelor. Whiskey and Hot-tubs. You scare me the way you walk with knives in a kitchen but damn, we make good food! Can't wait to drink beer and dance in the mountains to celebrate your wedding! 

There are SO many other friends to appreciate and celebrate. @SarahL, @KatieA, @MeganC, @MeganL, @Allison, @Katherine, @Ashley, and @SkiHouse.


- Un abrazo grande desde Chile

Getting Around in Chile: Buses

Since I have slept a total of 4 nights on a bus in the last 3 weeks, I figured I should share some key takeaways. Sleeping on the bus is more pleasant than my no-air flow bedroom that is 85 degrees at 7AM. Plus, I woke up with a volcano outside my window!

Even if you aren't about to take a bus in Chile, read on about my adventures in Southern Chile: Pucon :)

Chile has gorgeous towns and parks to explore and Santiago is getting hot. So, I am trying to escape the heat and see Chile. With about 3,000 miles of coastline, there are endless beaches, national parks and coastal towns just WAITING to meet me :)

Buses are notorious for punctuality (see my story below), comfort and for those of us from the good 'ol USA - they are safe.  I sleep with my wallet, laptop and iPhone in a bag by my chair and don't even worry about it. I would never take a Greyhound in the US.

Key #1 You can't actually purchase tickets on Turbus.cl

Even though you go through the process of choosing your city, departure time and type of seat, the page just loads…and loads. Head to the Turbus office on Providencia near Manuel Montt to purchase tickets.

Overnight buses: Choose the Salon Cama or Premium seat & you get a pillow, blanket and peace and quiet. I did cheap in college. Not anymore. The higher fare = comfort

Key #2 Sleeping on a bus is better than sleeping in an airplane. Bathrooms ...are better on a plane.

The comfortable, roomy seats go back almost all the way (Salon Cama) and if you are lucky, you can get an isolated seat - no one is next to you! The lights are off, the curtains are closed so I slept through sunrise and … sometimes the bus attendant will tuck you in. Kid you not, he will take that blanket, cover you up and make sure that your curtain is closed. 

Just imagine going to the bathroom on a bus, over a speed bump or around a curve in the road. 

Key #3 Buses in Chile are PUNCTUAL to the minute. 

A few times, even to the second! For example, a bus in Pucon (small southern town) leaves from town to take you to trailheads and the hot springs. Bus schedule says: noon departure. With a full bus at 11:58, we sat at the end of the road. 12:00 rolled around and he rolled into the street. Can't leave early - and definitely not late. Which is funny, because the rest of the country operates on some other clock that isn't aligned. "Be back in 10 minutes" could mean 2 hours.  **City buses in Santiago? Forget about trying to predict those times. BE ON-TIME. 

For example: My friend Lindsay came to visit and we went to a Thanksgiving feast. That same night, we had tickets to leave for Pucon, an overnight bus leaving at 10:50PM. The Thanksgiving feast was SO fun so we left a little atrasados (late). My solution? SPRINT to the bus! I changed from flip-flops into running shoes on the metro - ready to sprint to our bus from the metro station because we predicted that we'd arrive 1 minute before departure. Two old, very tired men started at me like I was a crazy girl. Putting on running shoes, without socks, in the metro? I knew I could stall the driver for a few seconds… 

We made it. By less than 2 minutes. We sat down with our bags in our laps and the bus pulled away. 

Good thing we made it….we went canyoning! 

Taking a night bus from Santiago, we arrived in Pucon, Chile at 9:30AM and started our adventures! 

Day 1: Left the bus station with morning breath and got to Paradise Pucon Hostel Had some homemade bread, Nescafe, washed our faces, brushed our teeth. Then, hiked El Caní with our Canadian friends & my new good friend (also a Coloradan living in Chile) Derek. 

Day 2: Went canyoning with Canyoning Pucon. Hiked in wetsuits for about 30 minutes then jumped in waterfalls, repelled down into water pools, slide down natural rock slides and had a blast with our guides Miguel and Tomas. Even though I got scolded for being chatty… what's new ;) 

Oh…this post is about buses. Right. LOVE LOVE LOVE Pucon. 




Key #4 Turbus breakfast

A sugary juice + very hard oatmeal apple cookie, placed on your lap as a gentle alarm clock. 
"Hey, we are arriving soon to your destination, so wake up and eat something."  

Key #5 Companies

I prefer Turbus. It's like the popular kid in high school. It goes to most major cities in Chile. 

• Pullman is another company. Never used it before but it's Turbus's main competitor. 
• Jac is another company that has lots of options from Santiago. 
• Andes del Mar for your Argentina border crossing

Key #6 Getting your bag at the end of the trip

Chileans are pushy and have no limits when it comes to being first. If you've got a bag in storage, everyone mobs around the storage door. As soon as the poor worker opens it up, people stick their luggage ticket in his face. Even if their bag isn't visible, they want it first. Old woman are the worst. They have a mean look, push to the front and are not even apologetic when they hit you with their bag. 

Push your way to the front, point to your bag, smile your gringo-smile and say, Gracias when you get your bag before the pushy old lady. 

A few other things to know… 

• Main terminal is at Metro Universidad de Santiago
• The air in the bus is not as gross as airplanes. 
• Metro closes at 11PM so if you take a later bus, don't forget that you've got to get to the terminal first
• Buses to Valparaiso/Viña del Mar leave almost every hour, all day long so just buy your ticket at the terminal when you want to leave. 
• You have to pay to use the bathroom at the bus terminals. Bathroom on the bus..Plan Ahead. 
• Cheaper seats = hotter, more people, less leg room

Get out there, Travel. See the world. Take a risk and Feel Vulnerable to truly know who you are and where you are headed. Ask questions later because the answers probably aren't changing anytime soon. 

Travel in Chile: Valparaiso & the beaches

Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. Cousin cities and both worth knowing. 

Just 1.5 - 2 hours away from the polluted, crowded streets of Santiago, Chile and you can be laying on the beaches of Viña del Mar, soaking in the sun from November - early March. And drinking a Pisco Sour with a view of the ocean and incredible coastline. 

Just hop on a bus from Santiago for less than $10 round-trip and you'll get a nice South American tan. Avoid rush hour traffic from 5PM - 7PM or you'll be in the bus for an extra hour (or two). 

Where to Stay? 

Valparaiso. The streets and houses are colorful. There is art everywhere: drawings of the horizon, street art on abandoned buildings and paintings on hostel walls. It is where you want to each ceviche, congrio, sea bass, camarones, ostras, y reinata. People are friendly and a bit silly. Plus, the hostels and B&B options are less expensive than the glamorous Viña. Beware of weird Chileans that want to hug you or take your photo - with their camera and just of you. That's weird and maybe they are trying to pickpocket you. 

Linds, ready for oysters & ceviche? 

The whole city is designed around the cerros, or the mountaintops. The locals don't know street names or cross streets. They know mountaintops. Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion are the two main tourist hilltops. There are centuries-old ascensores that take you from sea-side up the hill. It's like San Fransisco hills but steeper so the walk up can get old after a few times. Lindsey and walked those streets to walk off the Pisco Sours, beers, and fish that we just kept consuming. And we may have gotten turned around in the winding staircases that go on and on like something from a Dr. Seuss book. 

Imagine that walk everyday

We met some rockin' Canadians, eh, at a fun little joint and one Pisco Sour led to many more shared beers, dances and a wine tour at Indomita. 

Want to get wild on the weekends? Go out to the bars and clubs on the main street, Errazuriz, and you'll find something to keep you dancing until 5AM. We went to Casa Negra one night and danced to American hip hop and reggae all night. The camera LOVED us that night - I think we were the only non-Chileans there! But, cheap beer in Chile is worse than Bud Lite. You've been warned. 

We loved the location, price and ambiance of our bed & breakfast, Casa Kultour. It's a chill place with big rooms, nice bathrooms and they organize tours for local vineyards, the cultural points of Valpo and have dance lessons. If they've got rooms available, I'll stay there every time. 

Valparaiso, Chile

Patio of our hostel

The history, culture and sun are waiting for you! 

Streets of Santiago

I walk everywhere. I did the math and I walk about 300 minutes a week. It's a lot, right?

 I walk to meet up with friends, to the La Vega for fruits and vegetables, to the metro or to the mall.

Walking the stairs in Valparaiso, Chile

You get it. I walk a LOT. About 15 - 18 miles in a week. So, what's it like to walk in a city of 6 million people? The better question would be, "How many times a day do you hear sweet nothings by men in the streets in a day?" Too many to count! 

"Que linda." "Eres muy guapa." "Que preciosa."  "Tu eres muy bonita."  "Linda. Bonita." "Eres una estrella." "Que guapa." 

linda = beautiful

preciosa = precious

bonita = beautiful 

guapa = pretty/beautiful 

Words aren't enough and some Chilean men believe noise will land them a sexy glance from their target. Whistling. Honking. Clucking - yes, like some sort of baby chicken noise.
Has it ever worked? Has a man ever gotten a flirty look back when he cackles at a woman walking down the street? Ever got a number?

The other day I was sweating. A lot. It was SO incredibly hot and my English classes are at lunch time -- my clients say it's their "coffee break."  A taxi driver stuck his head out the window like a dog with his nose out in the fresh air. Apparently sweating is sexy in Santiago. Who knew?

These two love to stick their head out the car window!!!

I honestly thought he was going to cause an accident. "Preciosa." "Linda." "Eres el sol de mi vida."

My roommate, Kelsea, laughs. And I laugh too. She put it well, "When I go back to the US, no one tells me that I'm beautiful and pretty in the street. We feel so gorgeous here. I can go to the fruit market in my pajamas and get attention." 

American Boys: This is your permission to tell Kelsea and me that we are beautiful when we are in the States.

That day, it was just too much. I was sweaty, hot and thirsty and walking to an English class. He almost caused an accident. It's absolutely hilarious. What did I do? I flipped the bird.

Twice that day! Can you believe it? I was so over being called gorgeous, beautiful and pretty that I flipped off two different men - both in cars.

Why is this hilarious? Because nothing actually will happen. These men whistle, whisper positive thoughts and are not shy when checking me out. And they keep walking to wherever they were headed before crossing paths with me. Maybe I'll smile, say gracias or shake my head in disdain. There isn't a fear - like in Chicago - of walking home and being assaulted or raped. Well, there is a growing fear of crime but actual crime stats are not growing.

My lovely and oh-so-great friend Lindsey was visiting me for 10 days and we went to the fish market. Think: Pike's Peak in Seattle but less commercialized and developed. The fish gutter told us we were the most beautiful girls, muy hermosas, and I finally said (in Spanish), "Sorry, you aren't the first one to tell us that today. But, thanks anyway."

His fellow fish gutters thought that was pretty funny. So did we.

Lindsey was in shock the whole time she was visiting me. The catcalls were more culture shock than the Chilean lack of fashion, the tasteless food or the very, very public displays of affection.

In the last 10 days, we were cackled at/whispered to/honked at:

- by a 10 year old boy driving shotgun with his dad
- by at least 5 cars in the streets of Santiago
- walking to the bus station in Pucon, in sweatpants
- sweaty, walking through downtown Santiago
- at the fish market, by the fish gutter
- by the Turiskit guy who said, "You make impressions on me."
- stared at by the candy-seller on the beach in Viña del Mar but we were guarded by a street dog that honestly guarded us by barking at the jerk and circling us. #lovestreetdogs

Chilean Wedding & Gender Equity

Little did I know that I would wake up the next day at 2PM….

My handsome Chilean date, Pablo! 

Dear future husband and wedding planner,

Chileans know how to throw a wedding and here is what I want:

• Bling-bling, hats and rapper video sunglasses for all to wear while dancing.
• Soup served at 3AM is brilliant. Gives an energy boost, revitalizes and replenishes some vitamins from all the drinking. 
• A torta table.
• Appetizers & cocktails outside with a stunning view

Chocolate, 3 Leches, Dulce de Leche and some panqueques too! 

The bride and groom were fabulous! Cote, the bride was stunning and her groom was as happy as could be! They lit up the dance floor well past 4AM.

Let's start with the dance party and work our way backward to the religious ceremony that wasn't all G-rated!

Party Time! Chilean wedding parties go until 5AM. I didn't see any Red Bull or power naps, or any other non-Chilean wedding guest (but there were blonde ladies…) Just Piscolas (Pisco and Coke) in one hand and the occasional picada kept the guests & newlyweds energized. Get this. Imagine yourself dancing to the latest JLo song with some Mardi Gras beads and a silly hat, and a waiter brings out a tray of mini burgers onto the dance floor. Protein boost to fuel 3 more hours of dancing? Genius! 

View of the dining area from the dance floor

Waiters come right into the dance floor, full of inebriated cousins, friends, uncles and aunts, with trays of snacks. Mini burgers around 2AM. French fries at 4AM. All night the Piscolas were flowing from the bar that was right on the dance floor.

Need to take a break from those high heels? Not me! I was smart and wore flats. When friends here told me a Chilean wedding goes until 5AM I knew there was no way in hell I would wear heels. Good thing Steve Madden sells a pretty pair of sparkly flats.

Back to snacking...Did you see that cake table? There were sweets galore - all night -  AND consommé at 3AM. A sweet lil thang cuts your cake for you, too. She thought I was crazy when I scooped up the raspberry chocolate cake crumbs instead of cutting a piece. I may have tried 3 different cakes...Good thing we danced for 4 hours!

Music. The dance floor was hopping all night! At first, the newlyweds and their parents dance a traditional, classic dance. And nobody pays attention. After that - it's open to us all! Plus - no slow songs. Thank you! A very interesting observation was made about the music: the DJ worked his way from typical, popular Chilean songs north to the Carribean: salsa, merengue and Puerto Rican booty-shaking tunes, and then even more north: Rihanna, Carly Jepsen (Call Me, Maybe!), The Killers, Ke$ha, and even some throwbacks with BackStreet Boys and New Kids on the Block. Apparently, as you travel north from Santiago, the better the music gets for dancing. I guess that means Shakira & Pitball are like the border-crossing from South America to the USA.  Don't worry, Gangham Style made an appearance!

Gorgeous decorations, a purple hew and the bridal table right in the middle of it all 

 The dinner was fantastic. The food was fabulous & the company great. I sat next to this beautiful couple, they were friends from Cote's work (she works with LanChile). We chatted about love, Santiago and traveling in the USA. They were super sweet and lots of fun (don't forget…this is all in Spanish…)
Oh and guess what? I was at a socially-progressive wedding. Often, Chilean weddings have a male and female dinner plate. Males get the meat and females get the fish….We all ate meat. 

Side note: this was the first year (last Sunday, October 28, 2012) that men and women could VOTE in the same place. Previously? there were separate voting locations for men and women. In 2011. 

Saturday in Santiago: A new running group!

Running in Santiago has been fun! Check out all the places I've been running! 

A few running routes in Santiago, Chile

My favorite is America Vespucio Sur because it is quiet, has cool statues of famous dead people and has really weird boldy-colored exercise equipment that looks like a McDonald's playground for adults. And, its a dirt running path that goes forever! 

But, I like to have the option to run with a friend. Unfortunately, my good friend Katie can't leave Denver to come to Santiago for a Saturday morning run followed by an omelette and diner coffee.  So, I needed to start the search for a new running buddy. 

Running buddies are hard to come by. How do you find someone that runs an equal pace, wants to run between 8K and 20K on any given weekend morning, and thinks its normal to stop at a gas station to use the bathroom during a long run. We are each other's therapy AND get to experience the runner's high together.

Ever hear of Hash House Harriers? The slogan: 

"The international drinking club with a running problem." 

Hell yes. A run and a few beers, sounds like a great Saturday afternoon! I thought I'd go for a 5 mile run, have a few beers and make some new gringo friends. So, I signed up with expectations of running slower than normal so I could be social and meet some new people. 

And, here's what happened. 

How does Hash work? 

• You run the streets, looking for piles of flour. Yes, flour. When you see the pile you yell, "NON" or something like that. That pile marks the trail! So, if you aren't careful, you'll just be running on your own with no group and no sign of beer :( 
• Normally, there is a beer stop on the run. My first day? No beer! 
• The flour piles can be on light posts, fences, sidewalks, trees, or construction cones. You'll find 3 successive piles to know you are on track. Anywhere. Sometimes, they are hidden. Sometimes, the trail hare (the person that places the flour) likes to deceive you and put 1 pile in the wrong direction. 

The best part is after the run. Think you know how to tailgate or survive at a keg party? You might not make it at a Hash. These people can DRINK. We circled up and an hour later I was tipsy. 

• If you are new, come to the middle of the circle. Drink 
• If you are American, come to the middle of the circle. Drink. 
• Got new shoes on? Come to the middle of the circle and pour your beer into your shoe. Drink. YEAH. That really happens

Cups and cans of beer are readily available. Sarcasm is at its finest. Songs with lyrics too inappropriate for me to publish (..I know, right?) were sung to cheer on the chugging. I can't wait to go back for Hash #2. After 5 Hashes, you get a stage name and it is totally inappropriate, sexually inspired and used by men that are my dad's age. Awkward and inspiring at the same time. Most of the group are expats from the States, a few Aussies, some Brits and not too many Chileans. 

Coming to visit me in Santiago during a Hash? Don't bring new running shoes but bring your college drinking spirit. 

 

Clothes Shopping in Santiago

What to do when you need more options than the 2 jeans and a pair of blue hipster pants you brought to Santiago?

Head to Patronato and scavenge hundreds of small stores, with a kindred Colorado soul, to shop!

To be fair, Derek coincidentally also wanted to buy a pair of non-jean pants. He only brought one pair of pants to Chile! I at least have had 3 options.

What is Patronato? One of the most diverse sectors in the city and the capital of commercialism. You can buy tiaras, dog leashes and scissors from vendors on the streets. Peak into a store for high-waisted jeans, second-hand US clothing,  neon leggings, or prom dresses best suited for horror films. Did I mention store owners from around the city come here to buy their merchandise, then mark it up at their store 30 minutes away? And people pay.

Good thing Derek was focused and had a vision: buy pants that aren't jeans. But in a city where almost EVERY guy is almost always wearing jeans, could it be possible? His plan: start at cafe con piernas (look it up), walk the streets to see our options, find the one store with a dressing room and a woman who can look you up and down and know your size - and then leave because all she sells are jeans - then, at the 5th hour, find the only all-men's store. He got lucky!

Just to let you know, I bought a cute casual dress for $8US from a guy (now I've got a guy) with about 8 racks of clothes, all in plastic bags shipped from China.

Why you MUST go there: the diversity of jeans is incredible. You'll find a mannequin with dusty overalls. Neon leggings. Stereotypical Latina dresses that are too short for a short person. And, US sports team sweatshirts and shirts for $5US.

Don't got to Patronato with expectations. Go with 15.000 Chilean pesos (or less). 

After 5 hours in Patronato (we just couldn't get enough), a Chilean completo and finding a sexual fantasy book next to a Japanese cookbook, I still didn't have any non-jean pants.

Public Buses in Santiago -.las micros

If you live in a city, you most likely have taken a bus. When I was in Chicago, I took the bus to work, to school, to meet up with friends. Never did take it past a certain time, rush hour. But the most important thing is that when I took a bus one way, I knew I could take that bus on the return trip.

Scenario #1- Don`t remember the destination**, but I remember the journey.
First class with a new client! I had 2 options: out of the way trip by taking the metro or arrive at the front door by taking 2 buses. Guess which one I did? Fearful of the confusing bus system, I put on my bravery pants and headed to the bus stop. I jumped on Bus #1 and searched like a lost gringa for paradero #1. Found the paradero! Got off, and waited for Bus #2. Office buildings started to disappear and my projected arrival time had passed. 20 minutes on the bus and I felt like I was heading the wrong way.  I asked some nice-looking lady about my destination. She pointed across the street, at traffic going in the OPPOSITE direction. Dammit. I was heading east and not west, or west and not east. My mind and body still have not oriented to the North Star here.
So, I jumped off and my bus was there, in that moment! Good luck, right? HA. Got off that bus after I asked someone on the bus about my street. They said, you are far away. Here I am,  in a place called Vitacura. Or, fancy-pants residential neighborhood. A cute, very talkative señora tried to help me. She wanted to know my life story, but I should be teaching English RIGHT NOW. The first class with my client. And I am incredibly lost ,after taking 3 buses.
Solution? Jumped in a cab during rush hour. Brilliant.

Bus Scenario #2 Heading Home from La Dehesa (Hollywood Hills of Santiago)
A little intro: I teach Mom & Pop at their office and their 4 daughters at their home. But, they live FAR from the metro. So, the only option is ...you guessed it. I planned my trip there with transsantiago.cl. Probably the worst public transportation website in the world.

Class #1. I arrived to the house! With no bus problems! Thanks to a super nice guy who is the bartender at a sushi restaurant. Thats a whole `nother post coming  your way... I took the 426 and the C09 to arrive. I got on the C09 to head home and asked the driver where to switch to the 426. He says, "Where are you headed? You can`t take the 426 to the metro from here." He suggested a different bus back to the metro. Awesome. Just to be sure, I asked a lady sitting in front of me. You can never be too sure. So, I switched to Bus #2 that would hopefully take me to the metro. After a few minutes, a gringo-esque guy tells me that this bus does not go to the metro. WHAT. That is what I was told. Twice. Okay. So I get off. The list of bus numbers at this paradero might as well be Mandarin. So I wait.

And I am done asking people how to get home. I will just pick a bus and hopefully sleep in my bed tonight. Buses do have a list of street names in the window, so I looked for Providencia. Found it! And, 10 minutes later I realize I am on a local bus. It is going SO SLOW down a side street, and I see the highway that I should be on. Shit. This is the longest freaking commute ever. Is this bus really going to take me to the metro? Wait a second... what do I see outside the bus? Parque Arauco. I am nowhere near my house. Now, I am just mad and tired. I need a beer, a bottle of wine and a shot of whiskey. That is what the buses will do to you. Consider yourself warned!
Solution: Pablo lives on the other side of the mall. If you were not aware, I lived with him for 2 weeks before I found my house. For the first time, I knew where I was. And it wasn`t where I wanted to be.

Sorry that story is so long. But, it is important that you know how messed up the bus system is here in Chile. My problems with the bus system include, but are not limited to:

• You must pay with the BIP. Also, if you do not have sufficient money on your BIP, you cannot recharge your card on the bus. No money transactions happen on the bus. Unless you buy ice cream from a vendor...
• The bus you take one way does not always bring you back. In fact, I doubt you can take the same buse round-trip if you want to follow the same route.
• Timing between buses is not coordinated or predictable. I have arrived at my bus station to go to La Dehesa at 4:30 and waited 5 minutes or 20 minutes. At my switch for bus #2, I have waited long enough to think about getting a cab for the last leg of the trip.
• There are people in yellow jackets at the bus. They are paid to be there (I think) but they do not do anything. They stand near the door when more than 4 people get onto the bus. If you ask them which bus you should take, I do not trust their answers. However, once I was saved by Mr. Yellowjacket. Of course I should have been at the bus station across the street. He realized I was on the wrong side of the road when I kept asking to go to a street that was in the completly opposite direction of traffic. HAHA.
• Depend only on yourself if you take the bus. Do not expect strangers to be able to point you in the right direction or give you alternative solutions.
• It is safe to take the buses after dark. Can`t do that in the States. 1 point for Chile.

Just so you know, after 3 trips to the house far away from the metro, I still have not had a "perfect" trip.

Moral of the story? Take a cab.  


*in the middle of writing this, I remembered where I was going. Ford Chile. Yup, the one and only US, Michigan-born company is 1 of the offices where I teach English. And, my client, Jacky, was super nice and forgiving about my extra tardiness.

Santiago: Land of Opportunities

In Santiago and need some money? 

Maybe I shouldn't share my secrets… but I'll share, because if you are stuck and need some lucas, why not try to…

1. Make a simple sandwich and sell it at any metro station
2. Teach private English classes
3. Find old plastic toys and sell them in the hallways of metro stations during lunch hours
4. Have lots of t-shirts in the States from road races, sports teams, and music events? Bring 'em down and sell 'em 

Or tell a coffee shop owner that you'll work for coffee…. 

I start on Monday morning. Working in a coffee shop. Yup, speaking Spanish!!! OMG. I just nervous. 

Sundays in Chile

It's raining today. And grey outside. This Colorado girl wants to stay in bed, snuggle, and eat hot soup. Did a few of those this weekend… 

No local shops are open. Buses are close to empty and streets are eerily quiet. When it rains? Parks are empty and families are huddled around marrequeta bread, tea and nephews and cousins playing inside.

What if you are a foreigner, with no Chilean family? What do you do? Drink. No question... let me get a bottle of Carménère.

Home, with plans not until 9PM birthday bash at the local California Cantina with some gringos y Chileans, of course I thought about cooking. Or baking.

Since my pantry is quite small - what do I make?

see the 3rd shelf down, wood basket? 5 things to the left of that basket are mine

Ideas? Didn't think so. I headed to the local Wal-Mart-owned grocer (UGGHHH - THEY are in Santiago!?!?!?) despite the potential for a downpour. With no umbrella, I was hoping I had luck on my side. After all, I did find a lost earring today! I was on the metro Friday night and realized I only had 1 earring in. Fashion faux-pas! Turns out, the other one was stuck in a different sweater that I threw on today. Earrings are back together! It's going to be a great day!

Escaping the rain by minutes, my new industrial kitchen became my home for the next 2 hours. This is the place to meander slowly, like a Chilean walking on a sidewalk.


You might be wondering what that lovely yellow bundle of joy is cooking in the pan. It's a quinoa-corn griddle! Sunday, nothing to do and fome weather outside means I have an excuse to cook something new!


Make some quinoa in a pot. Chop an onion or a few scallions, whisk an egg, grab some frozen corn and unthaw it. Throw it in a bowl with a little bit of flour, milk, pepper and some hot sauce (or, red hot pepper en polvo).

My workspace is a little different here in Santiago. I LOVE my new wood countertops and see that industrial oven? Hello pizzas, flat breads, muffins, cookies… baking is going to be SO fun with you. This kitchen is HUGE for an average Chilean home. They've got these tiny, tiny gallery kitchens that remind me of small New York kitchens.

Side note, knives in a shared house just aren't as sharp as you want 'em. I'm getting used to doing a little prick, then slicing and dicing. At least in Chile, you can buy knives, lighters and tobacco papers at the same spot. So convenient. 

I faced a big fear this week and I OWN it now.  This stove top is gas. Gotta light it with a match every time you want to cook. Light gas on fire. 

Light gas on fire. Did you hear that? 

I actually had a nightmare the other night that I turned the gas on first, then light the match and my face burned up. This beautiful blonde gringa face - a melted mess. This actually almost happened. Swear.  The trick? Light the match first, put it over the gas holes where you know the fire will be lit. Turn the gas on and BAM.

No big POOF of fire because gas is escaping. MOM - I have street smarts, after all! I can light a stove!!! No more fancy buttons for this lady. I've got legit fire under my pans & a fire in my soul, call it Latin passion. I can even put peppers straight on stovetop for some charred red peppers. YUM. I think I will do that this week.

Side note. Bought some flour today to make the quinoa-corn griddles. Guess what flour is used for? BAKING. Be ready, folks. Chilean pastries - will be mastered by the time I am states-bound.

Missing my weekly kitchen adventures with Kathleen… maybe I'll make a Chinese duck with you in mind, or that ridiculously amazing roasted whole chicken.