Saturday in Santiago: Avenida Italia

What better way to spend a Saturday than strolling the trendy design area of Barrio Italia? It's located close to the Santa Isabel metro but it's a hidden gem.

My unfortunate answer: trying to get my house key copied. Why? Well, I lost mine. But you should know that to get into the house, you have to open a locked gate. So, I clearly had the keys in order to get into the house. Hiding somewhere only to be found when I make a copy from my roommate's keys. 

I headed to Lider (Wal-Mart's invasion into Chile) where there is a key copy guy. Of course, he didn't have the key he needed to make a copy. What?? Any other place close by? He says, "Maybe down Santa Isabel?" Maybe.

Since moving here, I realize that I find the place I need to be without using a map or reading directions. I head toward the metro station closest to the place, and miraculously find myself there. So, I figured I would meander the streets and find a place. You do know that 80% of businesses are closed on Saturdays, right? I was taking a big risk of even hoping to find a place.

But I did find a hip and hidden section of Santiago very close to my house! I'm anticipating more Saturdays in this classy shopping-restaurant district. 

A little restaurant with great outdoor seating

Like most of Santiago, the best of the city is hidden, off the beaten path and full of history. Barrio Italia is just that!

See the presents on the building? So cute!

When you walk through that entryway, you walk through an artfully designed hallway that introduces you to a few tiny stores of Chilean clothing designers, things for the home, baby clothes stores, and usually a little cafe with artesenal ice creams and yummy cakes. There are quite a few blocks lined with these buildings. Each street-side doorway led to colorful little shops and cafes.

With 2 or 3 small stores and a cafe, each building surprises you with fun, artsy finds! 

Hidden from the streets, my curiosity led me through the hallways and doors. I had a blast window shopping. As my first Christmas away from home, it is a weird feeling watching others spend tons of money on presents for others. It makes me think about how we spend, spend and spend money. When really, I want to spend, spend, spend time with my family and friends. 

On the outside, the building looks like an old, worn down front. Inside, color!  

The stores were FULL of people shopping for Christmas. There were Patagonia lotions and creams, art for the home, cute clothes and just lots of fun finds. If I were to decorate a home here, this is where you'd find me (and all my money).

It was about 80 degrees outside, and I was hot. 

Guess what I found? Gelato!

Apple-Basil artesenal gelato. YUM! 

Oh, wondering if I got a copy of the house key? NO! I even went on a run to the Costanera Center, the go-to place for ANYTHING you want or need. And there was no key copy place! At least I got a good run in. Because later that night, my roommate and I went to the uber-popular restaurant La Jardin to eat delicious stone pizza and drink a Mango Mojito. 

Overall, a great Saturday in Santiago! 

Best of Chile: Completos and PDA

Two things that should never appear in the same sentence. Completos and PDA in Chile are two culture classics that you can't escape.

There aren't words.

But yet, it is totally "normal" to see a couple going it at, in broad daylight, in the public parks throughout the city. I just haven't seen two attractive people, I seem to find the ones that make Married with Children seem classy. I wonder how Chilean film rates their movies for sexual content if this is what we see everyday, anywhere in public spaces? 

Lindsay was disgusted every time she saw a couple laying down on the lawn, making out or rolling around. She spotted this couple and immediately snapped a few photos, out of shock. Good eye, Linds. 

What Do You Order to Drink in Chile?

Yo voy a tomar….

Just got to Chile and need a drink after that 12, 16 or 20 hour flight here? Heading to Patio Bellavista with the rest of the tourists to grab a drink. But…what should you drink? 

You might think of Chilean wine: the famous Carménère wine; the lost grape of France, found in Chile.  Or another one of their wines from the Casablanca Valley (shown below). A decent bottle only costs $5 US. 

I even did the tour and learned about the wine. The valley here is drier than Napa. The red grapes are crushed and the white wine grapes are smashed differently. The reds sit in the oak barrels longer than the white wines stay in their tanks. The oaky flavor comes from the oak of the oak barrels. Lots of learning con caña. 


But I can't remember it all because I drank too much Piscola the night before. Piscola? What is that? Let me tell you. The Pisco is the liquor - made from fermented grapes - I think. It is the ONLY drink option at house parties, BBQs or sometimes, a bar or club. Chileans love their Pisco. It is never my first choice but sometimes my only option. You should never take a shot of it (I haven't). And you don't drink it on the rocks.

Vodka is expensive here. Whiskey: you'll see Jim Beam or $40 for a bottle of Johnny Walker. Rum: too many college nights with the Captain, so I don't want to think about drinking it here. Tequila: that's Mexico, Arizona and anywhere else in the US. I shouldn't generalize (but, why not?) but maybe Chileans think tequila is too spicy. They do think that jalapeños are very spicy.

There are different % and a few different brands. But, the proof below is that there are 2 main brands by people old enough to purchase decent liquor. Mistral or Alto de Carmen. This is the table the morning after a Chilean party. What you can't see are all the empty 2-liter Coke bottles. 

Coke and Pisco. Cheap and almost every Chileans will drink it. If girls bring the drinks, you've at least got Coke Light (Diet Coke in SA) instead of full-on Coke. It is so heavy, how do they drink so much Coke!? Find one that doesn't and you win a prize! They are very proud of their Pisco - so, you've got to try it. I just can't wait until I'm at a bar that thinks it is okay when I order my vodka + tonic with a lemon slice. And a margarita on the rocks, no salt. Yum.

You do have another option with Pisco. And that is the Pisco Sour. It is a citrusy-very, very sweet drink made with egg white, sugar and lemon/lime. Have 2 and you are done for the night. In Denver, Madison Street makes them - go ahead and try it!

Beer? Everyday, cheap beer: Escudo, Cristal. Better "artesenal" beers: Austral, Kuntsmann, Kross

The new(er) trend that hasn't reached a tipping point yet are the cervecerias: crafted beer. There are some good ones, especially in Southern Chile. I'll try a few more before I tell you about those…

**Thanks, Jen for reminding me to write about something SO important: drinking in Chile! 

Reflecting: Refueling in Chile

Everyone asks, "Why did you come to Chile?" "Por qué estas aqui?"

Great question. For the first few weeks, I just soaked up the dancing, drinking, meeting new people and exploring the city. Now the question wakes me up at 8AM, walks with me to my English classes and simmers as I cook dinner.

Ever wonder if you are operating at your best? Last year, I tried to explain my burnt-out self to friends and family by saying, "I feel like I've given all my energy, there is only a little bit left in my toes. Nothing is filling that back up." Sure, I have my faith, absolutely fantastic friends that I miss everyday, a great new CrossFit gym, an inspirational church and the Rockies have been my playground for 3 years.

Just like with teaching, I need to assess where my energy has been and where I want it to be. Then, get there through discipline, determination and using my support systems.

At the end of last year, here's where I was:

"Burned Out." A free website told me what I already knew. That 35% felt like 19%. 

This morning, sitting with my Nescafe on the patio?

So, in the spirit of my rejuvenation and refueling, I'd like to thank a few people that kept me afloat last year when I wanted to walk out. 

Note: my usual sarcasm is definitely paused as I genuinely want to shout-out how much you mean to me. When I see you all, you all will get bear hugs and lots of love from me :) 

@my parents: You define supportive and unconditional love. Me heading to Chile (again)? Not exactly what you dreamed and planned for when I was a wee-tot. But you trust me and are still loving me. Thank you!

@Laura - We became friends when we both were at our most-stressed and least-energetic times in life. Then, you recognized that I wasn't myself last year and handed me an opportunity to rejuvenate. This year would not have been possible without you! Can't wait to celebrate love and friendship in Arizona with you and Seba in June! 

@Emily - coffee, scones and nights out in LoDo scratch the surface. You are honest, thoughtful and genuine. The shock on your face when you learned that I don't have a 5 or 10 year plan even scared me into action (even though I can't brainstorm in straight lines). Can't ask for a better roommate turned lifelong friend! 

@Kathleen - You are the only friend that 100% pushed me to go to Chile. Then there's the Bloody Marys. Gourmet Food. Bachelor. Whiskey and Hot-tubs. You scare me the way you walk with knives in a kitchen but damn, we make good food! Can't wait to drink beer and dance in the mountains to celebrate your wedding! 

There are SO many other friends to appreciate and celebrate. @SarahL, @KatieA, @MeganC, @MeganL, @Allison, @Katherine, @Ashley, and @SkiHouse.


- Un abrazo grande desde Chile

Getting Around in Chile: Buses

Since I have slept a total of 4 nights on a bus in the last 3 weeks, I figured I should share some key takeaways. Sleeping on the bus is more pleasant than my no-air flow bedroom that is 85 degrees at 7AM. Plus, I woke up with a volcano outside my window!

Even if you aren't about to take a bus in Chile, read on about my adventures in Southern Chile: Pucon :)

Chile has gorgeous towns and parks to explore and Santiago is getting hot. So, I am trying to escape the heat and see Chile. With about 3,000 miles of coastline, there are endless beaches, national parks and coastal towns just WAITING to meet me :)

Buses are notorious for punctuality (see my story below), comfort and for those of us from the good 'ol USA - they are safe.  I sleep with my wallet, laptop and iPhone in a bag by my chair and don't even worry about it. I would never take a Greyhound in the US.

Key #1 You can't actually purchase tickets on Turbus.cl

Even though you go through the process of choosing your city, departure time and type of seat, the page just loads…and loads. Head to the Turbus office on Providencia near Manuel Montt to purchase tickets.

Overnight buses: Choose the Salon Cama or Premium seat & you get a pillow, blanket and peace and quiet. I did cheap in college. Not anymore. The higher fare = comfort

Key #2 Sleeping on a bus is better than sleeping in an airplane. Bathrooms ...are better on a plane.

The comfortable, roomy seats go back almost all the way (Salon Cama) and if you are lucky, you can get an isolated seat - no one is next to you! The lights are off, the curtains are closed so I slept through sunrise and … sometimes the bus attendant will tuck you in. Kid you not, he will take that blanket, cover you up and make sure that your curtain is closed. 

Just imagine going to the bathroom on a bus, over a speed bump or around a curve in the road. 

Key #3 Buses in Chile are PUNCTUAL to the minute. 

A few times, even to the second! For example, a bus in Pucon (small southern town) leaves from town to take you to trailheads and the hot springs. Bus schedule says: noon departure. With a full bus at 11:58, we sat at the end of the road. 12:00 rolled around and he rolled into the street. Can't leave early - and definitely not late. Which is funny, because the rest of the country operates on some other clock that isn't aligned. "Be back in 10 minutes" could mean 2 hours.  **City buses in Santiago? Forget about trying to predict those times. BE ON-TIME. 

For example: My friend Lindsay came to visit and we went to a Thanksgiving feast. That same night, we had tickets to leave for Pucon, an overnight bus leaving at 10:50PM. The Thanksgiving feast was SO fun so we left a little atrasados (late). My solution? SPRINT to the bus! I changed from flip-flops into running shoes on the metro - ready to sprint to our bus from the metro station because we predicted that we'd arrive 1 minute before departure. Two old, very tired men started at me like I was a crazy girl. Putting on running shoes, without socks, in the metro? I knew I could stall the driver for a few seconds… 

We made it. By less than 2 minutes. We sat down with our bags in our laps and the bus pulled away. 

Good thing we made it….we went canyoning! 

Taking a night bus from Santiago, we arrived in Pucon, Chile at 9:30AM and started our adventures! 

Day 1: Left the bus station with morning breath and got to Paradise Pucon Hostel Had some homemade bread, Nescafe, washed our faces, brushed our teeth. Then, hiked El Caní with our Canadian friends & my new good friend (also a Coloradan living in Chile) Derek. 

Day 2: Went canyoning with Canyoning Pucon. Hiked in wetsuits for about 30 minutes then jumped in waterfalls, repelled down into water pools, slide down natural rock slides and had a blast with our guides Miguel and Tomas. Even though I got scolded for being chatty… what's new ;) 

Oh…this post is about buses. Right. LOVE LOVE LOVE Pucon. 




Key #4 Turbus breakfast

A sugary juice + very hard oatmeal apple cookie, placed on your lap as a gentle alarm clock. 
"Hey, we are arriving soon to your destination, so wake up and eat something."  

Key #5 Companies

I prefer Turbus. It's like the popular kid in high school. It goes to most major cities in Chile. 

• Pullman is another company. Never used it before but it's Turbus's main competitor. 
• Jac is another company that has lots of options from Santiago. 
• Andes del Mar for your Argentina border crossing

Key #6 Getting your bag at the end of the trip

Chileans are pushy and have no limits when it comes to being first. If you've got a bag in storage, everyone mobs around the storage door. As soon as the poor worker opens it up, people stick their luggage ticket in his face. Even if their bag isn't visible, they want it first. Old woman are the worst. They have a mean look, push to the front and are not even apologetic when they hit you with their bag. 

Push your way to the front, point to your bag, smile your gringo-smile and say, Gracias when you get your bag before the pushy old lady. 

A few other things to know… 

• Main terminal is at Metro Universidad de Santiago
• The air in the bus is not as gross as airplanes. 
• Metro closes at 11PM so if you take a later bus, don't forget that you've got to get to the terminal first
• Buses to Valparaiso/Viña del Mar leave almost every hour, all day long so just buy your ticket at the terminal when you want to leave. 
• You have to pay to use the bathroom at the bus terminals. Bathroom on the bus..Plan Ahead. 
• Cheaper seats = hotter, more people, less leg room

Get out there, Travel. See the world. Take a risk and Feel Vulnerable to truly know who you are and where you are headed. Ask questions later because the answers probably aren't changing anytime soon. 

Apartment Hunting in Santiago, Chile

Thinking about renting an apartment in Santiago, Chile?

With almost 5 million people in the city of Santiago you would think there would be 5 million places to live. Right?

No way. In 1 week of being in Santiago, here is what I have learned about renting an apartment in the capital of Chile.

1. There are only 20 apartments that fit my criteria on the most-used apartment search website. 

www.portalinmobiliario.com

2. Most people that you contact about the apartment are not the owners or the landlords, they are a middle-man service. And they get paid to talk to you on the phone and maybe, show you the apartment. Almost 10% commission from the rent gets paid to them, for answering a phone! 

3. Phone conversations about an apartment last 45 seconds. Email is extremely informal and the communication between me and whoever is behind the apartment is short, usually not even a complete sentence. At first, I thought it was rude and cold. Now, I realize it is cultural.  

4. Refer to #3: have a Chilean cell phone so that you can call. Email is unreliable. Cell phones are the best way to set up a time to visit the apartment and check out where you can sleep off your terremotos y chichas. Oh, cell phone numbers here are 8 digits. Cool, right? 

5. Being frustrated is normal. I felt down in the dumps yesterday because an apartment I really liked: perfect location, furnished, new paint and 2 huge terraces with lots of natural light is not mine. The property management wants a list of numbers, banks, bank accounts, proof of jobs, and more. Since I am gringa, renting means paying 6 months up front. WHAT. This isn't a rap video with money being thrown around me. 

6. Living alone in Santiago, in the areas where I want to live, means paying around $600 - $700 per month. Plus building fees and if you want Internet, add another $50US to that. Now, I am thinking of sharing an apartment with Chileans or expats that are here, if I can find a way to do that. Craigslist doesn't seem too popular, unless Chileans are living with non-Chileans. 

Did I mention that I moved here at the start of the BIGGEST Chilean holiday? This Friday starts the celebration of Chile's Independence from Spain in 1810, when the first meeting of the Chilean government took place. Imagine a city of almost 5 million feeling empty. I can't either but it is about to happen. People take off for beach houses, farms, houses in the south. They leave the city for almost a whole week.

Finding an apartment won't happen for another week. I am at peace with my new life as a vagabond. For today. Living without a home can truly be a vulnerable place to be. Yesterday, it got to me. It's all I think about now: find an apartment. Fortunately, I have friends that are taking me in and giving me a place to crash. <3 div="div">

Get this, my new friend Pablo is taking me tonight until I find a place and he was ROBBED 2 days ago. They only thing that they took? His couch! My future bed! Just in case you are wondering.. he went and bought another couch already. So, I can still crash in his gorgeous apartment that has the best views of Santiago. 

Moral of the story? Since I don't have an apartment yet, I must continue to search. 

Be ready to be frustrated and shocked by the process & the prices. Yesterday, I even found myself thinking that I might have to jump on a plane back to the States soon. Or, just cave in and sleep in the streets. Can you believe that? 

A friend asked me last night, "Why are you here?" 

Plaza de Armas, Santiago, Chile

I asked myself the same thing. Vamos a ver. 

La Semilla/The Seed

I was inspired to write a poem around the theme: Beginnings. Our high school does a Poetry Cafe frequently where students and staff can submit and read their poetry in front of the whole school during one of our morning meetings before academic classes begin.

This month, I was up late, unable to sleep and this poem came to me in its infancy and has metamorphosed to where it is today, and how I read it today in front of my students and fellow teachers.

The inspiration? The beginning of my life was when I studied abroad in Santiago, Chile so that is where this stems from. This is my story of self-discovery.

La Semilla


Sus palabras fueron una tormenta de sonidos
Como una lluvia de fuerte que estaba cayendo sin ritmo

Yo, en un lugar desconocido, con evidencia de bombas y sufrimiento
Me llenaban con dolor

Y una semilla fue sembrada

Tenia verguenza y me sentia perdida en mi identidad
Habia un muerte por impuestos americanos
y un silencio que nos encerro con las heridas escondidas de la gente chilena
Como sobrevivio la gente chilena abajo la mano fatal del dictador?

Maria, llena de gracia
pero lejos de mi corazon
Su sufrimiento y muerte no tuvo valor
Ella fue un peon para dinero y poder
Cuando vi su alma y espiritu?

Y crece la semilla

Fue el cuento de los desaparecidos
Soy nada mas de un grano de arena
Escucha las voces de las madres de Plaza de Mayo

Y la semilla continua creciendo

Llegue, sabia nada. Ahora, nada.

La semilla, me ha dad mi vida

The English version...

Her words were a storm of sounds
Like a strong rain with no rhythm, they fell

In an unknown place, with evidence of bombs and suffering
I was filled with pain

And a seed was planted

I was ashamed and I felt lost in my own identity
There was a death by our taxes
and a silence that surrounded us with
the hidden wounds of the Chilean people
How did they survive under the hand of a fatal dictator?

Maria, full of grace
but so far from my heart

Her suffering and death had no value
She was a pawn for money and power
When did I see her soul and spirit?

And the seed grew

It was the story of the lost and forgotten

I am nothing more than a grain of sand
Listen to the voices of the mothers at Plaza de Mayo

And the seed continued growing

I arrived, knowing everything. Now, nothing.

The seed, it has given me life.

Chile

The long awaited return to Chile. Five years ago my life took a turn for the better when I studied abroad in Santiago. Now, I am here again with my friend Liza, traveling como mochileras, to see this country in the wintertime.

Today is our first day of nasty weather. We are in Villarrica, the sight of the gorgeous Volcan Villarrica and in the land of the lakes. The air is covered in rain so we can´t see the volcano. We are heading out on a night bus to Santiago.

We crossed the Argentina'Chile border by bus...and that means we didn´t have to pay an entry fee into Chile!!! So when you travel by bus in South America, you escape the fee.

Bariloche ended up being a calm, relaxing week in comparison to the wild, sleepless party in Buenos Aires. Our host family was so great. Caro, our host mom, is a young mom with two beautiful girls. Since we were there during the Argentina 2-week vacation, the house was full of her friends that were in Bariloche for the week. The school was shit so I went 2.5 days. We learned more with our family than at the school. Caro´s boyfriend, Agustin is a great chef and cooked great food everyday for us. I have some great photos of us making empanadas (I will definitely make them in the states) and teaching liza how to open a bottle of wine the right way. Actually, I have a great video of that!

The best part of Bariloche was an all day bike trip I did by myself. I left school early one day and went on a Short Circuit bike trip around some lakes. The trip was difficult because there were a lot of hills. The views were preciosa and maravilloso - just unbelievable. Bariloche is very similar to a mountain town in Colorado but it has these amazing lakes. Colorado is missing the lakes - or else it would really be perfect. Barioche was FULL of Brasilians so I definitely learned to understand Portuguese. That will come in handy when I go to Brasil for the 2014 World Cup.

We also went to Villa la Agostura which is close to the Chilean border. Beautiful town!

The skiing in Bariloche was not that great but definitely worth the trip. We had a blast because of course, we were off track and snowboarded down some ATV trail! WHOOPS. The lifties thought that was hilarious when we asked them where we had been. Only crazy Americans would go through trees that were not marked.

The Argentinian people are beautiful - inside and out. They eat dinner after 10PM which is a little crazy, go out dancing until 5AM and drink little Italian coffees with more sugar than I usually consume in a year. Will I be back in Buenos Aires?

I met a woman that teaches in an IB high school outside of Buenos Aires and they are always looking for native English speakers because her school is bilingual. High school math teacher in Buenos Aires? Maybe one day....