Closing AFP accounts in Chile / Tramite for foreigners

*updated: April 1, 2015 (no joke!)* 

This will be a boring post. But 110% necessary if you live here and ever want to leave the country with the money you earn. Not a fun topic but if just one of us gringos feels ready to take on the tramites in Santiago and gets it done well, I did my job. I helped someone sweat less on the metro, stand in less lines and continue loving this beautiful country at the end of the world, it was worth it.

Closing your AFP account 

If you are a foreigner working in Chile and contributing to an AFP account, you can take out your money. As a US citizen, this is the process I had to do in order to close out my account and get my money. I'm waiting for them to direct deposit my money. 

1. STAMPS. Get a notarized copy of your university degree stamped by the Secretary of State (costs may vary by state?). Then, send that along to the Chilean Embassy in the US with a  money order for $12 US and a pre-paid, pre-addressed envelope for them to stamp it. If possible, get a legal translation in the US because it might be cheaper/faster than Santiago. 
2. DIPLOMA GOES DOWNTOWN. Head to the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores office on Agustinas 1320 (metro La Moneda) for a) stamp to legalize it and b) official translation. The stamp takes 30 seconds but the translation takes 15 work days. You must pay in cash and pay (at least a portion) up front. 
3. US EMBASSY. Make an appointment to receive a Social Security letter with the US Embassy. Be sure to state why you are making the appointment or else you get there, ask for the document and then have to go back to get it. This was free. 
• The US Embassy has a form letter. Make sure that it states "otorque prestaciones en caso de enfermedad, invalidez, vejez, y muerte." And of course, has the official US Embassy timbre
• Take that to the Relaciones Exteriores for a stamp. 
4. WORK CONTRACT. Get a copy of your work contract legalized by a notaría - legalized for your employer's signature and your own signature. Ojo: I went to AFP Modelo and gave them my notarized copy of the contract and they said I did it wrong. Apparently, you need to get your original contract legalized (for your signature and your employer's) and then get that copied and legalized. More on that experience later. Plus, get an anexo to your contract that states “la voluntad del trabajador de mantener la afiliación al sistema provisional extranjero."

• Take your passport and carnet with you to the AFP office. They will make a copy for their records. 

*update* April 1, 2015

How long is the wait from turning in the paperwork to receiving my money? 

This is super important because unless you leave a poder amplio to a friend or family member, you need to take your money out before you leave Chile. It took about three weeks but this is Chile - you could wait two weeks or two months. Also, it is a direct deposit! Hooray!

Avoid doing ANY paperwork between Christmas and February 28. If you live in Chile, you are laughing and angry right now. Am I right? 

Do I get the full amount in my AFP account? 

There is no penalty so you should expect to get your full amount. This could change because the policy of letting foreigners take their money out is very new, only a few years old. 

Does Chile require you to put that money into a comparable pension-fund account in the USofA? 

No! Pay off your college loans, buy a car, save it, donate it to your favorite charity. It is your money. Chile requires you to show that the US has a similar program - social security - because maybe they actually care that you are saving for retirement? I am speculating about the why behind the policy. You have free reign over your money! 

*end of update*

My personal experience? 

I went to the AFP Modelo and spoke with Women #1 and she said that I needed 1) the original contract legalized. Isn't the original already legal? I only had a notarized copy of the original. She also said that I needed a copy of my passport - but that wasn't a requirement on their list of things to do. I asked, "Anything else missing?" She said no.  

I went to the notaría to fix my contract and returned. Then, I spoke with Man #1 and he told me that I needed my employer's signature legalized. WHAT. Woman #1 never mentioned that. I asked, "What else?" He said nothing. So he didn't require a copy of my passport. Funny, they sit right next to each other at work all day long but yet, follow two different versions of paperwork that should have a simple, single procedure.

Two days later I had the original contract legalized twice - for my signature and my employer's - and an extra copy, a copy of my passport and a fake smile.

Turn it in, give them your bank information for a direct deposit and wait for the money to appear! 

Don't forget to take your finiquito to the AFC and receive your seguro de cesantía. 

WAIT, You are probably wondering... Why am I taking all my money out? 

We are MOVING to San Francisco, California!!!!! 

Wish us LUCK!

Villarrica and Nacional Parque Huerquehue

We got to see and feel the essence of spring in the south recently with a quick weekend trip to Villarrica and Pucon.  Blue skies are bluer in Pucon and the water there does more than quench your thirst. It fully and deeply nourishes you. Take a big slurp from any river or waterfall - you may just feel 10 years younger.

I'm alive! And I miss my blog. Life has been a bit busy ever since our epic 4 week vacation to the States. We got back in late September and ever since then, day to day life has been full of joy and gratitude. Unfortunately, I didn't set aside time to write. 

Back to Villarica! I love it for so many reasons: views of the volcano from any angle are stunning, the prehistoric Araucaria trees, the crisp air, and yummy bread. Plus, I've got history here. I was here as a college student with my study abroad friends and we went rafting, hiking, horseback riding, dancing until 4 am and I loved it then and not surprisingly, I am doing the same things ten years later and still loving it! And then a fabulous fruit friend lived here so she gave me the best excuse to come down and visit and play. besos Kels. 

We - Pablo and me, Shaggy and Magda - took the Friday night bus (better than business class in any commercial flight) from Santiago to Villarrica. Shaggy - aka Gustavo - is one of Pablo's friends from high school and he invited us to his family's place. How could we say no to a weekend outside of Santiago and in my all-time favorite place in Chile?

Not a bad breakfast view, right? It was even better with our maté.

No rain in the spring? Sunny, fresh air and so.green.

I felt younger, healthier and smarter all before 8:00 and without coffee. Must be the mythical energy of the volcano.






After renting a car in Pucon we kicked off our Saturday adventures with a Pisco Sour, fresh sopaipillas and then headed out to the Huife hot springs.

The hot springs resort sits along an ice-cold river with lush jungle on both banks. You can move between three different pools that are all kept at different temperatures. Give me HOT! Do you know how great that hot mineral-rich water is for your health? Good. Pablo was asleep within minutes, or seconds, on a lounge chair and I was happily moving from pool to pool with Magda and Shaggy.

Of course we almost lost Magda to the current when we dipped into the river and the current started to push her down and away from us! That stallion of a fiance saved his princess and we happily plunged into the ice cold river again. This place is a slice of heaven. Massages, little treks along the river, a restaurant, the lounge chairs in the grass and lots of wooden benches under big trees for lovers, of course.

 Sunday we woke up to another bluebird sky and it was already warm while we filled up on eggs, coffee and toast. Dreamy, right?

Sunday's adventure: Parque Nacional Huerquehue. This place is special for me. It was my first adventure in Chile ten years ago and I had been dreaming of the day I would get to go back. That first trek was life changing for me. I came from a small town where there are more trees than cars and houses but pulling weeds from the garden was as close as I got to outdoor hiking. So that hike opened the floodgates and I've been hiking and camping ever since. This time, I got to go with a real Chilean Boy Scout!

A mid hike mist? lovely! 

Getting there is no joke. The road is dirt and winding and you climb, climb, climb before descending into a valley and arriving at the park entrance. Not for the folks that freak out about heights and close ledges. 

Once you arrive, pay your park fee and even though there is parking right at the entrance, you can save about 45 minutes of road walking by driving a bit further into the park to another parking area. The park is massive with a handful of trails. There is a 6 hour hike in to get to some hot springs and they say the overnight is magical. Yup, it's on my to-do list for next time.

We wandered through forests with trees taller than most apartment buildings in Santiago and every once in a while, popped out of the thick jungle growth for a spectacular view of the volcano.  The trails are well marked and for Chile, very well maintained. I wonder how so many massive trees that are thousands of years old have survived the consequences of so many volcanic eruptions and earthquakes?

The many shades of green and chatter of the birds kept me fascinated. Want to know me? Being on a muddy trail with a water bottle and trail mix is the easiest way for me to disconnect, feel at home and be myself. At one point I even did some uphill trail running under the shade of the dinosaur trees. A few months ago I had that same urge to run - but up the road to the volcano. Pablo parked the car and read his book while I run up and down the road to the volcano. It's a sexy place, Pucon. 

We got misted as we watched the thundering waterfalls. Trees and vines grew a little bit more. We snacked at a laguna with the rhythmic noise of a giant woodpecker. Something magical happens in Huerquehue. I feel at home in a place that couldn't be farther than the place I say I'm from. 

Education Reform in Chile / Reforma Educativa en Chile

*DISCLAIMER* This is me reflecting and trying to figure out the complex education reform in Chile. 

I love teaching and want to be involved in education for the long haul. What drives me? Every student has a dream and deserves the opportunity to learn how to pursue that dream, no matter their skin color, religion, socioeconomic background, or learning style: all children must have access to a high quality education that can lead them to have a productive, happy life.

Geography, religion, family status, medical history, socioeconomic status, native language, race or any other factor should not impede access to a quality education. Why does it get so complicated? Money, capitalism, politics, religious beliefs, family problems, and health have influenced policy, infrastructure, teacher quality, curriculum and graduation rates. And there are probably more factors, but let's not touch the quality of public school lunches for today.

All that I just said applies to the United States. Does that happen in other countries, like Chile, too?

After one year working at a not-for-profit education foundation in Santiago, I have had quite a few observations. Just some background first. US, our current government structure acts with the believe that all American children deserve to be educated. Sure, we can debate quality across the nation - but we pay taxes so that rich or poor, you'll have a school to go to.

Fenton, MI | In my high school there were students that grew up in mansions on the lake and kids who received free lunch and lived in trailer park homes. We had the whole range of socioeconomic status although the majority were middle class. Diversity of skin color, race, politics or religion? Not enough to construct a pie chart.

Phoenix, AZ | As a teacher working in the public schools of Phoenix, I had black, white and Hispanic students. There were a few Muslim students, refugees from Cambodia who never had gone to school before and were in my 8th grade math class. Students who only ate when they were at school because there wasn't food at home. A few families went on vacations to Disney in California. Diversity was everywhere at this school and I loved it!

Santiago, Chile |  I work with an education foundation that serves Santiago's poorest, socially at-risk students. There are now 3 schools and our office is at the original school in the comuna of Renca. When I drive from the highway to the office, both sides of the street are littered with garbage. There are a lot of street dogs, and I recognize a few of them and smile when I see they've survived another night. A woman has built a shack of a house on the avenue itself. Think of those wide avenues that separate traffic, she's used materials from the neighborhood to string together walls, a roof and now has a little garden. It's actually quite impressive.

Anyway, back to education in Santiago. From what I've seen and heard, the Chilean government and its society doesn't see education as a right for every citizen. It is something you deserve if you can pay for it. Education is a privilege in Chile. 

Did you go to Disneyworld as a kid? That isn't a right as an American citizen (hm, maybe it should be!) but it is a privilege. So, you got to go because your parents and the money and opportunity to take you there. If you're really lucky, you stayed at a hotel in the park or got VIP passes to cut to the front of the lines. Money got you a different experience than driving to the park for the day. Any kid will probably love Disney - but your parents' economic situation determines how you spend your time.

There aren't taxes that go to a public education that open the system for all of its kids.  Don't get me wrong, I totally see that money can pay for a different quality of education in the States, too. But I'm talking about public education.


Chile is a new player in the OECD and will not be considered a developing country in 2015.  Where I work, it looks and feels like a developing country. On the Trends in International Science and Math test, Chilean students earned 462 and students from Florida earned 545 (US: 541). The average score was 500. One important factor: Chile is the only Latin American country to participate in the test.

How do schools work in Chile today? 
There are 3 types of schools: 1) public municipality, run by the local mayor, 2) semi-private schools run by foundations, churches or for-profit organizations, and 3) private schools, run by private foundations or businesses. No student in Santiago is automatically assigned to a school. You must apply to schools and get accepted.

STRUCTURE & MONEY: 

• Municipality schools get a budget based on their community and about $2,300 US/student/year and have the highest rate of students living at or below the poverty line
• Semi-private schools get about $2000 US/student/year and also charge families per student, between $20 US to $160 US. 
• Semi-private schools are FOR PROFIT and can make a profit off the public money, directly or indirectly, from the government. 
• Private schools are FOR PROFIT and receive no money from the government for the students. 

Without a doubt, if your family can pay extra for you to have a bit better of an education. What will they do? Chile has the highest socioeconomic segregation in k-12 schools in all the OECD countries. 

SELECTION: 

Municipality schools accept most students that apply.

Semi-private schools select students based on criteria that they set: religion, political activity of your family, ability to pay the student fees, intelligence/ability tests, etc. 

Private schools select students based on similar criteria but even more selective. Many of these schools are aristocratic and your last name determines if you'll be considered or not.  

A Weekend Getaway: Bahía Inglesa, Chile

Bahia Inglesa is said to be Chile's most beautiful beach. So, why not head there on a long weekend, take an extra 2 days of vacation and enjoy the beach and sounds of the ocean? 

Luckily Lan was running a sale for national flights so we snagged round trip tickets for about $60 each. Located about 800 kilometers north of Santiago, we took a direct flight to Copiapó (famous for the mining accident) and then a short taxi ride to our cabaña at Cabañas Playa Paraiso. 

We rolled up to our cabaña after dusk, the notorious Pacific coast clouds had covered the blanket of stars. With salty ocean air, sand between my toes and a cool ocean breeze, I was in paradise.  Plus, we had an amazing welcome from the owner Eduardo, he's very friendly and helpful! 

Our tropical tiki cabaña was perfect for a romantic beach getaway! Nothing beats a simple breakfast with a dreamy Latin soccer player. Each morning the Pacific clouds slowly folded away from the coast and as they did, the sun shone brilliantly onto the water and sand. Once the rays of sun hit our beach chairs, it was sun bathing time!  

Pablo had just finished busy season at work so he needed this escape and well, I didn't need it but I am grateful that we could celebrate my birthday on the beach! We all want to celebrate our birthdays with lots of love, smiles and good food, right? Check, check and check!

For a few years of my childhood we lived in Stuart, Florida and the beach was a constant part of our life. I remember sitting at the water's edge making sand castles, burying my legs and sifting for pretty shells in the shallow water. Chile's ocean water isn't so inviting.  Pacific Ocean water is cold!  On the count of 3-2-1-3-2-...okay, GO!  

Which type of water entrance do you make? The slow-wader or the all-in diver? 

I start with a wade and a few short breaths then, I pick a wave and dive right in. It's so refreshing under the hot desert sun but just so cold. 

We swam, dove into the waves and kissed like teenagers. Why is it that water is so calming for the soul but can also be a powerful force of energy that invokes fear? What I do feel is safe, free and happy in the water. My soul finds comfort in the rhythm of the ocean waves, the rippling of water with the sand and the stillness underneath the surface. It's like I'm a kid again, splashing and jumping and all the while laughing at myself for feeling so uninhibited. 

And then at night, the sun turns from a hot, watchful eye of energy to a romantic, soft light. Those sunsets each night were magical, just like what I imagine a good-night kiss from my guardian angel would feel like, only that I sense it in my heart. I'm getting to be such a softy these days!

These guys were everywhere on the beach! Unfortunately, the pelicans and vultures beat us to them so there wasn't any fresh crab salad for lunch. What did we eat? Eggs and avocado with toast for breakfast, lunch was rice with a simple salad. Two nights we had a little asado with chicken, beets and peppers on the grill. Simple, semi-camping cooking and it was just right. 

We took walks on the beach - long, romantic strolls and on average, saw 4 people a day. Perfect weather, turquoise water and lots of big scallop and clam shells to collect. We really liked staring at the barnacles that covered the buoys; some were still alive and slowly stuck out their slimy muscle from their black weathered shell. At one restaurant we even saw people eating them. That's too gross for me. 

Along one short stretch of the 4 km beach we walked through this red algae and it smelled like dirty ocean and a bit of dead fish. Not pleasant but it was so pretty! 

"Ostiones vivos" Of course I didn't know that live scallops meant still ALIVE. I just thought that was the Chilean way of saying fresh scallops. Nope. Those translucent, buttery, delicious scallops started pulsing. Since their only defense system is pushing air between their two shells to propel them across the ocean floor, they were trying. 

I ate one and Pablo goes, "you know those are alive and moving, right?" WHAT. NO. I played it cool though and said, "Yeah, I know...wait, WHAT?" 

And then I saw it. The pulsing white muscle. One was a fighter. I squeezed the juice from a whole lemon onto that one and let it sit for a while so I'd forget which one it was. Yes, I ate them all and each one was so incredibly good!

The famous Bahia Inglesa beach! We actually never swam here, it wasn't hot enough to take the plunge. We did enjoy the view with a few Pisco Sours at a beachside restaurant. Even though it was Easter weekend, the tiny tourist part of town was not too busy. I'd recommend going in late March to avoid the massive summer crowds but still take advantage of good beach weather. 

Should you go to Bahia Inglesa for the beach? Imagine you're in the middle of a desert, surrounded by pink and orange mountains with sandy hills for a landscape and then a bright blue and turquoise bay shines under the hot northern Chile sun. Plus, fresh scallops are more abundant than bread! 

Once again, I'm fascinated by the striking natural landscape in Chile. Mountains, arid desert and sparkling ocean waters combine to give us this beautiful beach getaway. Yes, I'd go again! 

Road Trip to Northern Chile: Pisco Elqui

I'm a lucky girl! My good friend Alessandra, sorority sister from Loyola, just finished med school and is about to start residency in Chicago. So how did she decide to celebrate the end of student loans and the beginning of her life as an MD? Come to Chile for a week!

About 480 miles north of Santiago is La Serena, a beautiful coastal beach resort town and 100 kilometers east of that into the Andes is Pisco Elqui - was our destination. Even though Google maps said it would take 9 hours to get there from Santiago, we believed our friends that said 5.5 hours to La Serena.

We left Santiago around 3PM and arrived to our gorgeous B&B in La Serena at 20:58; google was wrong! The last 2 hours were in the dark but thankfully God gave us an enormous silvery full moon; it seemed like it was sitting right on the edge of the mountain peaks just for us.

Road Trip Tip #1: Leave with enough daylight to arrive with light or travel with a full moon. 

There are less than 100 street lights in almost 400 miles of Ruta 5.

We stayed at this adorable B&B, El Arbol, and not only were the shared spaces and room comfy and cozy but the energy was positive, relaxed and friendly. Definitely recommend it! 

After a bread and butter with instant coffee breakfast, we headed east. Our drive from La Serena into and up to Valle de Elqui was like driving through an autumn rainbow. Deep burgundy leaves, blue and purple mountains, crisp blue skies and endless rows of grapes towards the pot of gold - Pisco Sours!  

Other than your occasional tractor and Chilean guaso, there was no traffic from the city to Pisco Elqui. The road winds and climbs around mountain curves, giving us bird's eye views of the lush green valley below.  Windows down, we saw Pisco distilleries, a microbrewery and fruit stands selling fresh papayas, persimmons, and avocados. There isn't much between you and the cliffs, so I don't recommend learning to drive stick in these parts! 

Avocado trees were planted into the hillsides, I don't know who walks through there plucking down our avocados but thank you! Plus, thanks to Israeli irrigation systems for getting water into the hillside plantations in a valley that receives an average of 4 inches of rain a year!

Our hostel in Pisco Elqui was up from the main square where a white Spanish stucco-style church takes center stage. Although our hostel had gorgeous desert landscaping and bright, cheerful rooms the beds were uncomfortable, hard and squeaky. But for $25 a night with breakfast and a parking spot, we got over the bad night's sleep pretty quick.  

The Gabriela Mistral distillery is right in town, across the square from the main church and a block down from the public school. We did the tour to see the production process, learn about the history of Pisco in the valley and of course, taste a few of their Piscos. 

I'd say 95% of Chileans drink their Pisco with Coca-Cola. Ugh. I was happy to hear that the distillery does not recommend drinking Pisco with Coke (Piscola).  Pisco Sours or Pisco + clear beverage are the best ways to enjoy the liquor. 

the international amateur astronomer's learning about Mars 

On our first night in town we did a night sky tour to learn about the stars. Northern Chile is one of the best places in the world to observe and study the night sky because of the elevation and dry desert climate. Scientists from around the world and various countries come to this tiny paradise in the Andes. We were lucky enough to go on a tour with Roberto from Turismo Migrantes. He explained nuclear fusion, the size of the universe, the science of seasons and listed off countless facts about star size, light speed, distances between stars and planets and more but I just couldn't process so much science. 

It was phenomenal!  We saw Saturn, Mars, the Southern Cross and a few constellations!

He did crush one beloved wonder: there are no such thing as shooting stars. What we see are chunks of comets breaking off. As long as I still get to make a wish, right? 

The next day was our mud bath day! We hiked with Leo from Turismo Migrantes to mineral hot springs. He's not your typical mountain guide but he was fun to be with!  With the strong desert sun shining down, we used the mud as solar protection as we soaked and squirmed - how much more natural and organic can you be?

our hot springs hike

As you know, hot springs are located close to rivers and one of our hot spring pools was separated from the rushing river by only a few centimeters of rock. Imagine a hot tub connected to a pool, but raised a bit higher than the pool. In that narrow, smaller pool, where we accidentally played some footsie,  we were sitting right next to a small but powerful waterfall. 

Of course I jumped into the freezing rushing water - twice! The shock sent my limbs in all directions - I had no control over where I put my legs. According to Alli, she had never seen me react or move faster to get out of that waterfall!

our lunch spot along the highway

That same night we went with Leo - we were with him from 10AM to 11:30PM - to a family's horse ranch deep into the valley for a night sky horseback ride. Surprisely we survived the harrowing turns going up and around the mountain to get to the ranch. Yup, we mounted our horses in pitch black and slowly wandered along the valley floor toward our star gazing spot. 

I stared straight up at the millions of stars and whispered sweet nothings to my shorty Chilean horse. I barely give her directions and of course, she likes to be the leader. So I'm leading the three of us up and away, mesmerized by the peace in the air and completely relaxed on my horse. We got to our viewing spot and the best part of the night - Alli and I started the bonfire because Leo didn't know how to!!

My soul sings when I'm in the mountains, it's when I'm at my calmest and when I feel closest to God. My heart feels kinder and I feel like I'm in a flowing state of meditation.  It's the opposite in the city streets and in my car, I'm anxious and stressed. Doesn't that mean I should just move to the mountains, set up a ranch and start homesteading? 

We left Pisco Elqui around 10AM so we could enjoy the views and the drive was easy. We were having so much fun chatting, watching the waves crash as we drove by little fishing villages and laughing at ourselves that time flew. We ate our hostel-made avocado sandwiches with some fruit at a beach along the highway and stopped to by jams and grapes at a roadside stand.

Are we still friends after a 1000 kilometer road trip?  More than ever! See you in Chicago, Dr. Secco! 

Santiago: Where Can I Find...?

Living in a big city of 6 million or so people has its ups and downs. Living in the third world country with a semi-developed capital city has its benefits and struggles.  I'm sure living where you do also has its happy face and grey days, too. We all day. At the end of the day, I want to be the best I can and leave the world a bit better than I found it each day. :)

I want to make the best of it but, a girl from the good ol' USofA just wants some Reese's, pretzels and friendly strangers. Did you know something that foreigners comment on about us Americans is that we pick up a conversation with just anyone? That apparently isn't normal in the rest of the world. When you are walking around the streets of Santiago, you see the opposite. People have their resting-not-nice-face on all.the.time.  Try smiling at them and they think you're nuts.

happy get lucky pigs from Pomaire!

We need those people that wear the "Free Hugs" t-shirts on the streets of Santiago! Someone bring them here!

That was sort of connected to where I wanted to go. I was thinking about what to do on a Friday night and simultaneously thinking about things I miss/can't remember that I miss from the red, white and blue.

p.s. WE ARE GOING (COMING) TO AMERICA!!! Pablo and are going to the US this September for 3 weeks. Bring out your American friendliness, humor and take us to a football game, invite to your pumpkin patch and fill us with American beer (no Bud, though). Can't WAIT!

at work in a typical Chilean elementary classroom with 38 students

Anyway... my random list of things I wish I could find in Santiago...

• Live music. Small little hole-in-the-wall places with live music
• Great tacos. I need fish tacos with slaw. Or Mexican tacos with sweaty-spicy salsa. 
• Jazz
• Radio stations with a variety of music. How is radioDisney the only station to play throughout the whole city? It's either romantic Latino music or Justin Beiber.
• Veggie sandwiches without mayo or cheese. 
• Efficiency. I miss efficient meetings, quick service, and timely responses
• Greek yogurt. The stuff they sell here is marketed as Greek yogurt but I want US-style authentic Greek yogurt. 
• Policeman at intersections that have malfunctioning traffic lights. It is a fierce battle of the bigger machinery when traffic lights go out. I'm afraid my car and I won't come out alive every time. Where are the policemen protecting the citizens?
• Nice strangers/workers. Where are you?  The negativity that 99% of workers here is unbelievable. I miss nice strangers/workers. 
• Bars to sit at. I love sitting on a stool at a bar and enjoying a cocktail or leaning against the bar to have a advantageous viewing spot. There are a few here, but very few. 
• Great clothes. Man, I'm not even a fashion-forward girl but I miss my Anthropologie, Macy's, Buffalo Exchange and TARGET. Oh, what I'd do for a Target shopping spree... 
• Fresh air. Oh yeah, gotta hike out and into the Andes for that one. The winter smog is setting in...

My friends Leanne and Katy on my rooftop! 

Which leads me to... Why do I live here and like it? 

• super casual work environment yet still meaningful 
• loads of vacation time
• cheap travel throughout the country
• insanely delicious fruit and veggies for DIRT CHEAP
• Peruvian food
• city life + mountains. It's better access than Denver to the foothills of Boulder or Golden
• I feel smart living and working in Spanish. I feel smart in English too but a different smart
• I don't spend lots of money on materialism: fashion, design, home goods, purses so I have more in my bank account at the end of the month
• I can get away with a lot because I'm a foreigner. But I can also get screwed over because I'm a foreigner. 
• AMAZING view from our apartment balcony! I live on the 18th floor. That is super high up and we look straight at the Andes and over a big park. We don't have an Ugly Naked Guy !

Sunday in / outside Santiago: Hiking Alto de Naranjo

Urban Hiking in the Andes: Alto de Naranjo 

Going outside is not an escape. It's the place I feel most at home, where the wind moves me and the sound of trees and birds isn't noise but songs of life. The small dot that contrasts against the blue sky isn't a peak, it's the place I feel most grounded and most alive. Nothing fills my soul like a few hours outside, scrambling up boulders and drinking the fresh air.

Ever hear a bird song that sounds like a person whistling? I thought someone had fallen overboard (can you do that on a mountain?) and was stuck in the centuries-old cactus field from the sound of this bird. Did I whistle back? The bird was probably looking for its sexy bird buddy but I was celebrating the blue sky and breeze. 

And, we saw a really cool bird! It's called a Tinamou and apparently, not seen often. 

not my photo, thanks go to these guys

 He scared the daylights out of me. I think about pumas, mountain lions, and of course think that the scrambling sound will be my last song before the attack. But no, pumas live deep into Patagonia, very far away from me.  

My friend Carissa, also from Michigan (crazy!), and I went on a Sunday hike together. It was super foggy in the morning but turned into a perfect fall hiking day. We drove just 20 minutes from my place in Las Condes to the Catolica soccer/futbol stadium at San Carlos de Apoquindo. Basically, all the way "up" in Santiago. The neighborhood is dreamy: houses with yards, quiet streets lined with trees and clean, fresh no-smog air. 

We parked at the stadium - free-  and walked through the baby soccer fields to the trailhead. We saw some micros, so I'm betting there is public transportation to this trailhead.  

*Note: try not to go the same day as a game! I'm betting it turns into a madhouse!

You need to pay 1.500 pesos ($3.00US) to use the trails and it is worth it! The trails are so clean and very well-marked. They have actual trail posts that point you in the right direction. I think it is my first time seeing those in Chile!  

There is a big map at the start and a really friendly park ranger that helped us get oriented; we took off for Alto de Naranjo. We shared the trail with a few groups of intense mountain bikers for the first 2 hours and then ran into less than 10 people on the rest of the hike up. There were some narrow parts of the trail and that of course, is where we stepped out of the way of the descending bikers. 

*There is another trailhead from a puente which is bike-free and about the same distance and time as our hike. 

It was beautiful! The desert colors and bright blue sky make for the perfect painting. The hike is not difficult, there are very few semi-steep sections and if you're in hiking shoes, you're fine. Carissa had on tennis shoes, the footing was a bit tricky in a few spots but she made it!  Along the way there are great views of Santiago (on a low-smog day) and towards the Andes. At one point, we could see the ski resorts, they looked like dollhouses!

This hike takes you to a big tree, out of place on a mountain covered in cactus and desert shrub. You have the option of crossing to another peak and staying the night in a refugio. But that was 4 km and 3 hours away. Not in our day hike plan. 

what shade of blue is that? blue heaven! 

We had packed a tipico Chilean lunch: bread, avocado, tomato and ham with some fresh fruit and a bag of nuts. Side story, I think I'm averaging half an avocado per day. When I grow up, I want an avocado tree outside my kitchen window. Daily guacamole. Avocado/tequila soap. Avocado face masks and avocado/orange juice. YUM. You're all invited! 

After a relaxing lunch with the coolest international family ever (two young boys were perfectly bilingual and the parents were rad) we headed back down.  Carissa, you are a great hiking friend! We had so much fun chatting and listening to nature. Thanks Carissa, for the company, goodies and covering my entrance fee! 

Needless to say, we were DUSTY. My white socks were Dustbowl brown when I got home. My hair felt like straw and I had a fine layer of Andes dirt on my face. 

And the next day my body felt strong, healthy and ready for the week. 

Should you do this hike? Yes! And look for me, I'll be out there again!

#LollaCL: Music Festival in Santiago

2 days of music in a big park? Yes, please! My ears and feet are desperate for some live music after months of DJs and sad Santiago radio stations. Lollapalooza Chile started a few years ago and this year it brought us Elle Goulding, Phoenix, Imagine Dragons, Portugal. the Man, Cage the Elephant, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Capital Cities and a few Chilean artists, too. p.s. Francisca Valenzuela is the only Chilean heading to Chicago so if you're going, check her out! 

Tickets are pricier than Chicago, obviously. You are bringing bands to South America! Plus, Santiago is expensive and exclusive. Who goes to Lollapalooza? People with money;  the upper middle-class buy tickets for their teenage kids to run around, the socialists go to try to be seen and be photographed and then there are the Americans. Something mind boggling? The Early Bird tickets sold out in 1 day; they go for $90 US and are before the bands are published. So, you buy a ticket before knowing who is coming? Crazy! 

My theory is that the ticket is priced to bring a certain social crowd in and keep certain socioeconomic groups out. How sad !!  Is that how music festivals are in the States, too? I don't know. I just can sense the politics of the social caste system here as sharp as Cheddar. 

Enough about politics. Let's talk about how FUN it is to dance to live music! I loved dancing to Vampire Weekend on Sunday afternoon and before them, Portugal. the Man. Both said it was their first time to South America and they were loving the vibes!

What did I love best about Lolla? Pablo took me to listen to bands that he knows and likes but were new to me, and I did the same. He introduced me to Anita Tijoux, a Chilean hip hop performer. She put on an awesome show but even better, she is a class-act. Some of those rich Chileans I mentioned earlier were yelling mean things to her during her concert. First, show some class. Second, why go to her show if you're bringing negative vibes? Find somewhere else to try to be cool. Lolla was started to share the love of music and support live music.  @anita I danced, smiled and am a new fan! 

Pablo is a new fan of Imagine Dragons and Phoenix. Hooray! 

My favorite concert? Vampire Weekend!  I danced like a crazy girl, jumping up and down and around the whole hour. I have been listening to them for a while and they were the band I have wanted to see live for some time. And they delivered great music. 

Unexpectedly great? Elle Goulding is an artistic character and she's got a great voice!

Criticism? Chileans smoke a lot. And with 70,000 people in a very crowded park I was breathing secondhand smoke from at least 5,000 people almost all day. It was awful. There were too many people there; constant pushing to move through the crowds and very little grass space to sit. You couldn't sit and listen to the bands because with so many people, you had to stand and defend your spot.  The overcrowded park and smoking were hard to ignore. I don't think I'd go to Lolla2015.  

Also, trash. How can you consciously keep your trash on the grass and not feel bad? There is a general lack of responsibility and pride in their public spaces. There were enough trash bins but way too much garbage on the ground. I'm talking about bags of chips, wine bottles, and thousands of cigarette butts. To help someone not in Chile understand, these concert-goers have had full-time nannies in their house their whole life so they've never had to clean one bathroom or sweep a floor. 

organic apples for sale by biker!

Were the shows great? No. The bands play for about an hour each so they play a mix of old and new tunes. There weren't lights or even a WOW factor. Just music. 

What else was there? There was a big kids area with their own kids stage, games and arts activities. At the main entrance to the park you first walk by a Playstation tent where people were lined up every day to play videogames.  There was a corner with lots of potential but noticeably a lack of action: the Sustainability Corner. Lots of organic/natural booths with cool products but lame vendors. You walk by and they don't engage with casual or interested potential clients. 

Would I go again? Probably not. I'd rather go backpacking in the south for a long weekend or surfing at the coast. Am I glad I went? Heck yes! 

What's playing on my youtube right now? the full Imagine Dragons album!