Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Sunday in / outside Santiago: Hiking Alto de Naranjo

Urban Hiking in the Andes: Alto de Naranjo 

Going outside is not an escape. It's the place I feel most at home, where the wind moves me and the sound of trees and birds isn't noise but songs of life. The small dot that contrasts against the blue sky isn't a peak, it's the place I feel most grounded and most alive. Nothing fills my soul like a few hours outside, scrambling up boulders and drinking the fresh air.



Ever hear a bird song that sounds like a person whistling? I thought someone had fallen overboard (can you do that on a mountain?) and was stuck in the centuries-old cactus field from the sound of this bird. Did I whistle back? The bird was probably looking for its sexy bird buddy but I was celebrating the blue sky and breeze. 

And, we saw a really cool bird! It's called a Tinamou and apparently, not seen often. 
not my photo, thanks go to these guys
 He scared the daylights out of me. I think about pumas, mountain lions, and of course think that the scrambling sound will be my last song before the attack. But no, pumas live deep into Patagonia, very far away from me.  



My friend Carissa, also from Michigan (crazy!), and I went on a Sunday hike together. It was super foggy in the morning but turned into a perfect fall hiking day. We drove just 20 minutes from my place in Las Condes to the Catolica soccer/futbol stadium at San Carlos de Apoquindo. Basically, all the way "up" in Santiago. The neighborhood is dreamy: houses with yards, quiet streets lined with trees and clean, fresh no-smog air. 
We parked at the stadium - free-  and walked through the baby soccer fields to the trailhead. We saw some micros, so I'm betting there is public transportation to this trailhead.  
*Note: try not to go the same day as a game! I'm betting it turns into a madhouse!



You need to pay 1.500 pesos ($3.00US) to use the trails and it is worth it! The trails are so clean and very well-marked. They have actual trail posts that point you in the right direction. I think it is my first time seeing those in Chile!  
There is a big map at the start and a really friendly park ranger that helped us get oriented; we took off for Alto de Naranjo. We shared the trail with a few groups of intense mountain bikers for the first 2 hours and then ran into less than 10 people on the rest of the hike up. There were some narrow parts of the trail and that of course, is where we stepped out of the way of the descending bikers. 
*There is another trailhead from a puente which is bike-free and about the same distance and time as our hike. 



It was beautiful! The desert colors and bright blue sky make for the perfect painting. The hike is not difficult, there are very few semi-steep sections and if you're in hiking shoes, you're fine. Carissa had on tennis shoes, the footing was a bit tricky in a few spots but she made it!  Along the way there are great views of Santiago (on a low-smog day) and towards the Andes. At one point, we could see the ski resorts, they looked like dollhouses!
This hike takes you to a big tree, out of place on a mountain covered in cactus and desert shrub. You have the option of crossing to another peak and staying the night in a refugio. But that was 4 km and 3 hours away. Not in our day hike plan. 

what shade of blue is that? blue heaven! 
We had packed a tipico Chilean lunch: bread, avocado, tomato and ham with some fresh fruit and a bag of nuts. Side story, I think I'm averaging half an avocado per day. When I grow up, I want an avocado tree outside my kitchen window. Daily guacamole. Avocado/tequila soap. Avocado face masks and avocado/orange juice. YUM. You're all invited! 

After a relaxing lunch with the coolest international family ever (two young boys were perfectly bilingual and the parents were rad) we headed back down.  Carissa, you are a great hiking friend! We had so much fun chatting and listening to nature. Thanks Carissa, for the company, goodies and covering my entrance fee! 


Needless to say, we were DUSTY. My white socks were Dustbowl brown when I got home. My hair felt like straw and I had a fine layer of Andes dirt on my face. 
And the next day my body felt strong, healthy and ready for the week. 

Should you do this hike? Yes! And look for me, I'll be out there again!

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