Celebrate Christmas in Santiago

I'm a very lucky lady :)

This was my first Christmas away from my family and I approached it with bravery, selfishness and excitement. Great mix of emotions, right?

Christmas with my family is a BLAST! Since I wasn't there this year, I sent them the following video:

Christmas 2012 from Jaclyn Karnowski on Vimeo.

A typical Christmas in my family can be summarized into: holiday spirits to spike the laughter :)

I bake a lot. My mom has a fully stocked kitchen with ingredients, gadgets and the space! 

My pups and I snuggle, we go for chilly winter runs together and Ginger likes to chew on my Christmas shorts. 

My Mom's sister and her family come to our house to celebrate on the 25th and all we do is eat, drink and play with the many dogs that we love! 

My cousin Scott: can be found with at least 1 dog, a book and snazzy glasses. 

My cousins, sister and I get to spend quality time together. Scheming new chapters of our life, sharing great memories of the year, drinking lots and laughing! 

Of course, we eat like kings and queens. Prime rib. Red wine. Potatoes and leafy winter salads. Lots of Christmas cookies (thanks Em! and Mom!). Don't forget we eat homemade cinnamon rolls and quiche to start the day…with Mimosas, of course. 

But back to Chilean Christmas… 

I forgot to take pictures! But, I want to thank the beautiful and fun-loving families that opened up their home and hearts for me! Pablo's Mom & Dad, his 2 sisters and their husbands and of course, the sobrinos. Suzy and her husband hosted us at their beautiful home, a little outside of the city where we ate, laughed and played with all the new presents! I brought homemade truffles: chocolate-orange liquor, coconut-chocolate, honey dates with nuts (raw) to share and I think they liked 'em… 

A Chilean Christmas goes something like this… 

• We celebrate on the 24th with dinner, presents and family 

• Dinner is between 10PM - midnight! Our was "early" this year but it wasn't before 10PM

• MY FAVORITE: Kids go "searching" for el viejito pascuero (Santa Claus) in the neighborhood. We go searching, on foot and by skateboard, around the neighborhood while the busy elves of the house place presents under the tree. "I saw his beard!" "Over here, I heard a reindeer." Reindeer in the heat of Santiago… maybe Santa should get some llamas. 

• The 25th is the day of rest. No one does ANYTHING all day. So of course, I hosted a BBQ at the house with my new Colorado friends, German friend, my Chilean sister Andrea,  a few folks of the house and my Chilean main squeeze, Pablo. 

Pablo was a little jealous because his family went out of their way and gave me presents! That was so unexpected and so sweet. Despite being thousands of miles from my family, I felt loved, shared the joy of the day with others and ate well. 

Saturday in Santiago: Avenida Italia

What better way to spend a Saturday than strolling the trendy design area of Barrio Italia? It's located close to the Santa Isabel metro but it's a hidden gem.

My unfortunate answer: trying to get my house key copied. Why? Well, I lost mine. But you should know that to get into the house, you have to open a locked gate. So, I clearly had the keys in order to get into the house. Hiding somewhere only to be found when I make a copy from my roommate's keys. 

I headed to Lider (Wal-Mart's invasion into Chile) where there is a key copy guy. Of course, he didn't have the key he needed to make a copy. What?? Any other place close by? He says, "Maybe down Santa Isabel?" Maybe.

Since moving here, I realize that I find the place I need to be without using a map or reading directions. I head toward the metro station closest to the place, and miraculously find myself there. So, I figured I would meander the streets and find a place. You do know that 80% of businesses are closed on Saturdays, right? I was taking a big risk of even hoping to find a place.

But I did find a hip and hidden section of Santiago very close to my house! I'm anticipating more Saturdays in this classy shopping-restaurant district. 

A little restaurant with great outdoor seating

Like most of Santiago, the best of the city is hidden, off the beaten path and full of history. Barrio Italia is just that!

See the presents on the building? So cute!

When you walk through that entryway, you walk through an artfully designed hallway that introduces you to a few tiny stores of Chilean clothing designers, things for the home, baby clothes stores, and usually a little cafe with artesenal ice creams and yummy cakes. There are quite a few blocks lined with these buildings. Each street-side doorway led to colorful little shops and cafes.

With 2 or 3 small stores and a cafe, each building surprises you with fun, artsy finds! 

Hidden from the streets, my curiosity led me through the hallways and doors. I had a blast window shopping. As my first Christmas away from home, it is a weird feeling watching others spend tons of money on presents for others. It makes me think about how we spend, spend and spend money. When really, I want to spend, spend, spend time with my family and friends. 

On the outside, the building looks like an old, worn down front. Inside, color!  

The stores were FULL of people shopping for Christmas. There were Patagonia lotions and creams, art for the home, cute clothes and just lots of fun finds. If I were to decorate a home here, this is where you'd find me (and all my money).

It was about 80 degrees outside, and I was hot. 

Guess what I found? Gelato!

Apple-Basil artesenal gelato. YUM! 

Oh, wondering if I got a copy of the house key? NO! I even went on a run to the Costanera Center, the go-to place for ANYTHING you want or need. And there was no key copy place! At least I got a good run in. Because later that night, my roommate and I went to the uber-popular restaurant La Jardin to eat delicious stone pizza and drink a Mango Mojito. 

Overall, a great Saturday in Santiago! 

Guns and Reactions to US Violence While Living in Chile

Indeed, the very hairs of your head are all numbered. Don't be afraid; you are worth more than many sparrows. Luke 12:7 

The unfortunate and horrific tragedy that occurred in Connecticut is yet another slap in the face to the US culture, heavily influenced by the stupidity of the gun lobbyists and the government. I usually don't share my politics, and don't really want to. But today, in the face of yet another shooting at a school that took the lives of children and adults, I can't keep my anger or sadness inside.

Guns are an unnecessary social status in the United States. Why is it socially acceptable to own a gun? Why do people living in a city or a town feel the need for a gun? Do you hunt your food? Then have a hunting rifle or bow and arrow. A semi-automatic gun or whatever they are called have one purpose: to inflict harm on a human being.  We are the only species that kill each other. 

Why did I leave the United States? Why did I want to live abroad? 

Our culture is messed up. I couldn't think straight when I was numb to school shootings, kidnappings, murders, gang violence and rappers swearing and putting down others. At CrossFit one day, there was a freaking shoot-out in front of me. We witnessed a guy shoot a woman's hand. WHAT. That is NOT a memory I wanted. 

Want to know something? I was numb to the Colorado shootings. Why? Because that day I ate a normal breakfast, I probably went for a run, and checked my email. Sure, I called friends from work to find out of we had students or staff at the movie theater that night. I sent emails out to colleagues, begging for information that our kids were not there that night. But, I did not go comfort the families or see if I could help in some way. I went to bed that night the same person that I was that morning. I'm ashamed by that. I don't want to live with that lack of feeling to such a terrible tragedy. 

Living Abroad

I'll never forget when 3 Australians asked me, "Will we get shot if we go out in Miami?" We were sitting at a restaurant in Santiago, Chile and I had to explain why they'd most likely be okay. When I was living in Phoenix, I remember waiting in line to pay for gas and seeing a man fuel his car with a gun on his waistband. I immediately became uncomfortable. So, someone might be carrying a gun when you're at a club in Miami. If they have a license to carry, and if the state allows for concealed weapons in public places…. 

Want to check your state gun laws? 

Chileans don't have school shootings. There aren't problems with guns or news reports of gun violence. When people have asked me about the Aurora shooting this year - and now about the elementary school - they are stunned, speechless. I see more concern in their faces than in my own "patriots." What is humanity if we don't see that our uniqueness is what makes each person valuable and necessary? 

What's the worst that could happen here? Someone will steal your iPhone out of your hand. Chileans grieve for the families that lost their loved ones. They want to know WHY? HOW? WHAT IS GOING ON UP THERE? 

So do I. 

My faith in God and trusting in his strength is what has comforted me in the past and will continue to do so. He made every person irreplaceable. Let His Word bring you comfort. 

2 Corinthians 1:3-4 
Praise be to the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, the Father of compassion and the God of all comfort, who comforts us in all our troubles, so that we can comfort those in any trouble with the comfort we ourselves receive from God

Best of Chile: Completos and PDA

Two things that should never appear in the same sentence. Completos and PDA in Chile are two culture classics that you can't escape.

There aren't words.

But yet, it is totally "normal" to see a couple going it at, in broad daylight, in the public parks throughout the city. I just haven't seen two attractive people, I seem to find the ones that make Married with Children seem classy. I wonder how Chilean film rates their movies for sexual content if this is what we see everyday, anywhere in public spaces? 

Lindsay was disgusted every time she saw a couple laying down on the lawn, making out or rolling around. She spotted this couple and immediately snapped a few photos, out of shock. Good eye, Linds. 

What Do You Order to Drink in Chile?

Yo voy a tomar….

Just got to Chile and need a drink after that 12, 16 or 20 hour flight here? Heading to Patio Bellavista with the rest of the tourists to grab a drink. But…what should you drink? 

You might think of Chilean wine: the famous Carménère wine; the lost grape of France, found in Chile.  Or another one of their wines from the Casablanca Valley (shown below). A decent bottle only costs $5 US. 

I even did the tour and learned about the wine. The valley here is drier than Napa. The red grapes are crushed and the white wine grapes are smashed differently. The reds sit in the oak barrels longer than the white wines stay in their tanks. The oaky flavor comes from the oak of the oak barrels. Lots of learning con caña. 


But I can't remember it all because I drank too much Piscola the night before. Piscola? What is that? Let me tell you. The Pisco is the liquor - made from fermented grapes - I think. It is the ONLY drink option at house parties, BBQs or sometimes, a bar or club. Chileans love their Pisco. It is never my first choice but sometimes my only option. You should never take a shot of it (I haven't). And you don't drink it on the rocks.

Vodka is expensive here. Whiskey: you'll see Jim Beam or $40 for a bottle of Johnny Walker. Rum: too many college nights with the Captain, so I don't want to think about drinking it here. Tequila: that's Mexico, Arizona and anywhere else in the US. I shouldn't generalize (but, why not?) but maybe Chileans think tequila is too spicy. They do think that jalapeños are very spicy.

There are different % and a few different brands. But, the proof below is that there are 2 main brands by people old enough to purchase decent liquor. Mistral or Alto de Carmen. This is the table the morning after a Chilean party. What you can't see are all the empty 2-liter Coke bottles. 

Coke and Pisco. Cheap and almost every Chileans will drink it. If girls bring the drinks, you've at least got Coke Light (Diet Coke in SA) instead of full-on Coke. It is so heavy, how do they drink so much Coke!? Find one that doesn't and you win a prize! They are very proud of their Pisco - so, you've got to try it. I just can't wait until I'm at a bar that thinks it is okay when I order my vodka + tonic with a lemon slice. And a margarita on the rocks, no salt. Yum.

You do have another option with Pisco. And that is the Pisco Sour. It is a citrusy-very, very sweet drink made with egg white, sugar and lemon/lime. Have 2 and you are done for the night. In Denver, Madison Street makes them - go ahead and try it!

Beer? Everyday, cheap beer: Escudo, Cristal. Better "artesenal" beers: Austral, Kuntsmann, Kross

The new(er) trend that hasn't reached a tipping point yet are the cervecerias: crafted beer. There are some good ones, especially in Southern Chile. I'll try a few more before I tell you about those…

**Thanks, Jen for reminding me to write about something SO important: drinking in Chile! 

Reflecting: Refueling in Chile

Everyone asks, "Why did you come to Chile?" "Por qué estas aqui?"

Great question. For the first few weeks, I just soaked up the dancing, drinking, meeting new people and exploring the city. Now the question wakes me up at 8AM, walks with me to my English classes and simmers as I cook dinner.

Ever wonder if you are operating at your best? Last year, I tried to explain my burnt-out self to friends and family by saying, "I feel like I've given all my energy, there is only a little bit left in my toes. Nothing is filling that back up." Sure, I have my faith, absolutely fantastic friends that I miss everyday, a great new CrossFit gym, an inspirational church and the Rockies have been my playground for 3 years.

Just like with teaching, I need to assess where my energy has been and where I want it to be. Then, get there through discipline, determination and using my support systems.

At the end of last year, here's where I was:

"Burned Out." A free website told me what I already knew. That 35% felt like 19%. 

This morning, sitting with my Nescafe on the patio?

So, in the spirit of my rejuvenation and refueling, I'd like to thank a few people that kept me afloat last year when I wanted to walk out. 

Note: my usual sarcasm is definitely paused as I genuinely want to shout-out how much you mean to me. When I see you all, you all will get bear hugs and lots of love from me :) 

@my parents: You define supportive and unconditional love. Me heading to Chile (again)? Not exactly what you dreamed and planned for when I was a wee-tot. But you trust me and are still loving me. Thank you!

@Laura - We became friends when we both were at our most-stressed and least-energetic times in life. Then, you recognized that I wasn't myself last year and handed me an opportunity to rejuvenate. This year would not have been possible without you! Can't wait to celebrate love and friendship in Arizona with you and Seba in June! 

@Emily - coffee, scones and nights out in LoDo scratch the surface. You are honest, thoughtful and genuine. The shock on your face when you learned that I don't have a 5 or 10 year plan even scared me into action (even though I can't brainstorm in straight lines). Can't ask for a better roommate turned lifelong friend! 

@Kathleen - You are the only friend that 100% pushed me to go to Chile. Then there's the Bloody Marys. Gourmet Food. Bachelor. Whiskey and Hot-tubs. You scare me the way you walk with knives in a kitchen but damn, we make good food! Can't wait to drink beer and dance in the mountains to celebrate your wedding! 

There are SO many other friends to appreciate and celebrate. @SarahL, @KatieA, @MeganC, @MeganL, @Allison, @Katherine, @Ashley, and @SkiHouse.


- Un abrazo grande desde Chile

Getting Around in Chile: Buses

Since I have slept a total of 4 nights on a bus in the last 3 weeks, I figured I should share some key takeaways. Sleeping on the bus is more pleasant than my no-air flow bedroom that is 85 degrees at 7AM. Plus, I woke up with a volcano outside my window!

Even if you aren't about to take a bus in Chile, read on about my adventures in Southern Chile: Pucon :)

Chile has gorgeous towns and parks to explore and Santiago is getting hot. So, I am trying to escape the heat and see Chile. With about 3,000 miles of coastline, there are endless beaches, national parks and coastal towns just WAITING to meet me :)

Buses are notorious for punctuality (see my story below), comfort and for those of us from the good 'ol USA - they are safe.  I sleep with my wallet, laptop and iPhone in a bag by my chair and don't even worry about it. I would never take a Greyhound in the US.

Key #1 You can't actually purchase tickets on Turbus.cl

Even though you go through the process of choosing your city, departure time and type of seat, the page just loads…and loads. Head to the Turbus office on Providencia near Manuel Montt to purchase tickets.

Overnight buses: Choose the Salon Cama or Premium seat & you get a pillow, blanket and peace and quiet. I did cheap in college. Not anymore. The higher fare = comfort

Key #2 Sleeping on a bus is better than sleeping in an airplane. Bathrooms ...are better on a plane.

The comfortable, roomy seats go back almost all the way (Salon Cama) and if you are lucky, you can get an isolated seat - no one is next to you! The lights are off, the curtains are closed so I slept through sunrise and … sometimes the bus attendant will tuck you in. Kid you not, he will take that blanket, cover you up and make sure that your curtain is closed. 

Just imagine going to the bathroom on a bus, over a speed bump or around a curve in the road. 

Key #3 Buses in Chile are PUNCTUAL to the minute. 

A few times, even to the second! For example, a bus in Pucon (small southern town) leaves from town to take you to trailheads and the hot springs. Bus schedule says: noon departure. With a full bus at 11:58, we sat at the end of the road. 12:00 rolled around and he rolled into the street. Can't leave early - and definitely not late. Which is funny, because the rest of the country operates on some other clock that isn't aligned. "Be back in 10 minutes" could mean 2 hours.  **City buses in Santiago? Forget about trying to predict those times. BE ON-TIME. 

For example: My friend Lindsay came to visit and we went to a Thanksgiving feast. That same night, we had tickets to leave for Pucon, an overnight bus leaving at 10:50PM. The Thanksgiving feast was SO fun so we left a little atrasados (late). My solution? SPRINT to the bus! I changed from flip-flops into running shoes on the metro - ready to sprint to our bus from the metro station because we predicted that we'd arrive 1 minute before departure. Two old, very tired men started at me like I was a crazy girl. Putting on running shoes, without socks, in the metro? I knew I could stall the driver for a few seconds… 

We made it. By less than 2 minutes. We sat down with our bags in our laps and the bus pulled away. 

Good thing we made it….we went canyoning! 

Taking a night bus from Santiago, we arrived in Pucon, Chile at 9:30AM and started our adventures! 

Day 1: Left the bus station with morning breath and got to Paradise Pucon Hostel Had some homemade bread, Nescafe, washed our faces, brushed our teeth. Then, hiked El Caní with our Canadian friends & my new good friend (also a Coloradan living in Chile) Derek. 

Day 2: Went canyoning with Canyoning Pucon. Hiked in wetsuits for about 30 minutes then jumped in waterfalls, repelled down into water pools, slide down natural rock slides and had a blast with our guides Miguel and Tomas. Even though I got scolded for being chatty… what's new ;) 

Oh…this post is about buses. Right. LOVE LOVE LOVE Pucon. 




Key #4 Turbus breakfast

A sugary juice + very hard oatmeal apple cookie, placed on your lap as a gentle alarm clock. 
"Hey, we are arriving soon to your destination, so wake up and eat something."  

Key #5 Companies

I prefer Turbus. It's like the popular kid in high school. It goes to most major cities in Chile. 

• Pullman is another company. Never used it before but it's Turbus's main competitor. 
• Jac is another company that has lots of options from Santiago. 
• Andes del Mar for your Argentina border crossing

Key #6 Getting your bag at the end of the trip

Chileans are pushy and have no limits when it comes to being first. If you've got a bag in storage, everyone mobs around the storage door. As soon as the poor worker opens it up, people stick their luggage ticket in his face. Even if their bag isn't visible, they want it first. Old woman are the worst. They have a mean look, push to the front and are not even apologetic when they hit you with their bag. 

Push your way to the front, point to your bag, smile your gringo-smile and say, Gracias when you get your bag before the pushy old lady. 

A few other things to know… 

• Main terminal is at Metro Universidad de Santiago
• The air in the bus is not as gross as airplanes. 
• Metro closes at 11PM so if you take a later bus, don't forget that you've got to get to the terminal first
• Buses to Valparaiso/Viña del Mar leave almost every hour, all day long so just buy your ticket at the terminal when you want to leave. 
• You have to pay to use the bathroom at the bus terminals. Bathroom on the bus..Plan Ahead. 
• Cheaper seats = hotter, more people, less leg room

Get out there, Travel. See the world. Take a risk and Feel Vulnerable to truly know who you are and where you are headed. Ask questions later because the answers probably aren't changing anytime soon.