Saturday in Santiago: A new running group!

Running in Santiago has been fun! Check out all the places I've been running! 

A few running routes in Santiago, Chile

My favorite is America Vespucio Sur because it is quiet, has cool statues of famous dead people and has really weird boldy-colored exercise equipment that looks like a McDonald's playground for adults. And, its a dirt running path that goes forever! 

But, I like to have the option to run with a friend. Unfortunately, my good friend Katie can't leave Denver to come to Santiago for a Saturday morning run followed by an omelette and diner coffee.  So, I needed to start the search for a new running buddy. 

Running buddies are hard to come by. How do you find someone that runs an equal pace, wants to run between 8K and 20K on any given weekend morning, and thinks its normal to stop at a gas station to use the bathroom during a long run. We are each other's therapy AND get to experience the runner's high together.

Ever hear of Hash House Harriers? The slogan: 

"The international drinking club with a running problem." 

Hell yes. A run and a few beers, sounds like a great Saturday afternoon! I thought I'd go for a 5 mile run, have a few beers and make some new gringo friends. So, I signed up with expectations of running slower than normal so I could be social and meet some new people. 

And, here's what happened. 

How does Hash work? 

• You run the streets, looking for piles of flour. Yes, flour. When you see the pile you yell, "NON" or something like that. That pile marks the trail! So, if you aren't careful, you'll just be running on your own with no group and no sign of beer :( 
• Normally, there is a beer stop on the run. My first day? No beer! 
• The flour piles can be on light posts, fences, sidewalks, trees, or construction cones. You'll find 3 successive piles to know you are on track. Anywhere. Sometimes, they are hidden. Sometimes, the trail hare (the person that places the flour) likes to deceive you and put 1 pile in the wrong direction. 

The best part is after the run. Think you know how to tailgate or survive at a keg party? You might not make it at a Hash. These people can DRINK. We circled up and an hour later I was tipsy. 

• If you are new, come to the middle of the circle. Drink 
• If you are American, come to the middle of the circle. Drink. 
• Got new shoes on? Come to the middle of the circle and pour your beer into your shoe. Drink. YEAH. That really happens

Cups and cans of beer are readily available. Sarcasm is at its finest. Songs with lyrics too inappropriate for me to publish (..I know, right?) were sung to cheer on the chugging. I can't wait to go back for Hash #2. After 5 Hashes, you get a stage name and it is totally inappropriate, sexually inspired and used by men that are my dad's age. Awkward and inspiring at the same time. Most of the group are expats from the States, a few Aussies, some Brits and not too many Chileans. 

Coming to visit me in Santiago during a Hash? Don't bring new running shoes but bring your college drinking spirit. 

 

Clothes Shopping in Santiago

What to do when you need more options than the 2 jeans and a pair of blue hipster pants you brought to Santiago?

Head to Patronato and scavenge hundreds of small stores, with a kindred Colorado soul, to shop!

To be fair, Derek coincidentally also wanted to buy a pair of non-jean pants. He only brought one pair of pants to Chile! I at least have had 3 options.

What is Patronato? One of the most diverse sectors in the city and the capital of commercialism. You can buy tiaras, dog leashes and scissors from vendors on the streets. Peak into a store for high-waisted jeans, second-hand US clothing,  neon leggings, or prom dresses best suited for horror films. Did I mention store owners from around the city come here to buy their merchandise, then mark it up at their store 30 minutes away? And people pay.

Good thing Derek was focused and had a vision: buy pants that aren't jeans. But in a city where almost EVERY guy is almost always wearing jeans, could it be possible? His plan: start at cafe con piernas (look it up), walk the streets to see our options, find the one store with a dressing room and a woman who can look you up and down and know your size - and then leave because all she sells are jeans - then, at the 5th hour, find the only all-men's store. He got lucky!

Just to let you know, I bought a cute casual dress for $8US from a guy (now I've got a guy) with about 8 racks of clothes, all in plastic bags shipped from China.

Why you MUST go there: the diversity of jeans is incredible. You'll find a mannequin with dusty overalls. Neon leggings. Stereotypical Latina dresses that are too short for a short person. And, US sports team sweatshirts and shirts for $5US.

Don't got to Patronato with expectations. Go with 15.000 Chilean pesos (or less). 

After 5 hours in Patronato (we just couldn't get enough), a Chilean completo and finding a sexual fantasy book next to a Japanese cookbook, I still didn't have any non-jean pants.

Public Buses in Santiago -.las micros

If you live in a city, you most likely have taken a bus. When I was in Chicago, I took the bus to work, to school, to meet up with friends. Never did take it past a certain time, rush hour. But the most important thing is that when I took a bus one way, I knew I could take that bus on the return trip.

Scenario #1- Don`t remember the destination**, but I remember the journey.
First class with a new client! I had 2 options: out of the way trip by taking the metro or arrive at the front door by taking 2 buses. Guess which one I did? Fearful of the confusing bus system, I put on my bravery pants and headed to the bus stop. I jumped on Bus #1 and searched like a lost gringa for paradero #1. Found the paradero! Got off, and waited for Bus #2. Office buildings started to disappear and my projected arrival time had passed. 20 minutes on the bus and I felt like I was heading the wrong way.  I asked some nice-looking lady about my destination. She pointed across the street, at traffic going in the OPPOSITE direction. Dammit. I was heading east and not west, or west and not east. My mind and body still have not oriented to the North Star here.
So, I jumped off and my bus was there, in that moment! Good luck, right? HA. Got off that bus after I asked someone on the bus about my street. They said, you are far away. Here I am,  in a place called Vitacura. Or, fancy-pants residential neighborhood. A cute, very talkative señora tried to help me. She wanted to know my life story, but I should be teaching English RIGHT NOW. The first class with my client. And I am incredibly lost ,after taking 3 buses.
Solution? Jumped in a cab during rush hour. Brilliant.

Bus Scenario #2 Heading Home from La Dehesa (Hollywood Hills of Santiago)
A little intro: I teach Mom & Pop at their office and their 4 daughters at their home. But, they live FAR from the metro. So, the only option is ...you guessed it. I planned my trip there with transsantiago.cl. Probably the worst public transportation website in the world.

Class #1. I arrived to the house! With no bus problems! Thanks to a super nice guy who is the bartender at a sushi restaurant. Thats a whole `nother post coming  your way... I took the 426 and the C09 to arrive. I got on the C09 to head home and asked the driver where to switch to the 426. He says, "Where are you headed? You can`t take the 426 to the metro from here." He suggested a different bus back to the metro. Awesome. Just to be sure, I asked a lady sitting in front of me. You can never be too sure. So, I switched to Bus #2 that would hopefully take me to the metro. After a few minutes, a gringo-esque guy tells me that this bus does not go to the metro. WHAT. That is what I was told. Twice. Okay. So I get off. The list of bus numbers at this paradero might as well be Mandarin. So I wait.

And I am done asking people how to get home. I will just pick a bus and hopefully sleep in my bed tonight. Buses do have a list of street names in the window, so I looked for Providencia. Found it! And, 10 minutes later I realize I am on a local bus. It is going SO SLOW down a side street, and I see the highway that I should be on. Shit. This is the longest freaking commute ever. Is this bus really going to take me to the metro? Wait a second... what do I see outside the bus? Parque Arauco. I am nowhere near my house. Now, I am just mad and tired. I need a beer, a bottle of wine and a shot of whiskey. That is what the buses will do to you. Consider yourself warned!
Solution: Pablo lives on the other side of the mall. If you were not aware, I lived with him for 2 weeks before I found my house. For the first time, I knew where I was. And it wasn`t where I wanted to be.

Sorry that story is so long. But, it is important that you know how messed up the bus system is here in Chile. My problems with the bus system include, but are not limited to:

• You must pay with the BIP. Also, if you do not have sufficient money on your BIP, you cannot recharge your card on the bus. No money transactions happen on the bus. Unless you buy ice cream from a vendor...
• The bus you take one way does not always bring you back. In fact, I doubt you can take the same buse round-trip if you want to follow the same route.
• Timing between buses is not coordinated or predictable. I have arrived at my bus station to go to La Dehesa at 4:30 and waited 5 minutes or 20 minutes. At my switch for bus #2, I have waited long enough to think about getting a cab for the last leg of the trip.
• There are people in yellow jackets at the bus. They are paid to be there (I think) but they do not do anything. They stand near the door when more than 4 people get onto the bus. If you ask them which bus you should take, I do not trust their answers. However, once I was saved by Mr. Yellowjacket. Of course I should have been at the bus station across the street. He realized I was on the wrong side of the road when I kept asking to go to a street that was in the completly opposite direction of traffic. HAHA.
• Depend only on yourself if you take the bus. Do not expect strangers to be able to point you in the right direction or give you alternative solutions.
• It is safe to take the buses after dark. Can`t do that in the States. 1 point for Chile.

Just so you know, after 3 trips to the house far away from the metro, I still have not had a "perfect" trip.

Moral of the story? Take a cab.  


*in the middle of writing this, I remembered where I was going. Ford Chile. Yup, the one and only US, Michigan-born company is 1 of the offices where I teach English. And, my client, Jacky, was super nice and forgiving about my extra tardiness.

Santiago: Land of Opportunities

In Santiago and need some money? 

Maybe I shouldn't share my secrets… but I'll share, because if you are stuck and need some lucas, why not try to…

1. Make a simple sandwich and sell it at any metro station
2. Teach private English classes
3. Find old plastic toys and sell them in the hallways of metro stations during lunch hours
4. Have lots of t-shirts in the States from road races, sports teams, and music events? Bring 'em down and sell 'em 

Or tell a coffee shop owner that you'll work for coffee…. 

I start on Monday morning. Working in a coffee shop. Yup, speaking Spanish!!! OMG. I just nervous. 

Sundays in Chile

It's raining today. And grey outside. This Colorado girl wants to stay in bed, snuggle, and eat hot soup. Did a few of those this weekend… 

No local shops are open. Buses are close to empty and streets are eerily quiet. When it rains? Parks are empty and families are huddled around marrequeta bread, tea and nephews and cousins playing inside.

What if you are a foreigner, with no Chilean family? What do you do? Drink. No question... let me get a bottle of Carménère.

Home, with plans not until 9PM birthday bash at the local California Cantina with some gringos y Chileans, of course I thought about cooking. Or baking.

Since my pantry is quite small - what do I make?

see the 3rd shelf down, wood basket? 5 things to the left of that basket are mine

Ideas? Didn't think so. I headed to the local Wal-Mart-owned grocer (UGGHHH - THEY are in Santiago!?!?!?) despite the potential for a downpour. With no umbrella, I was hoping I had luck on my side. After all, I did find a lost earring today! I was on the metro Friday night and realized I only had 1 earring in. Fashion faux-pas! Turns out, the other one was stuck in a different sweater that I threw on today. Earrings are back together! It's going to be a great day!

Escaping the rain by minutes, my new industrial kitchen became my home for the next 2 hours. This is the place to meander slowly, like a Chilean walking on a sidewalk.


You might be wondering what that lovely yellow bundle of joy is cooking in the pan. It's a quinoa-corn griddle! Sunday, nothing to do and fome weather outside means I have an excuse to cook something new!


Make some quinoa in a pot. Chop an onion or a few scallions, whisk an egg, grab some frozen corn and unthaw it. Throw it in a bowl with a little bit of flour, milk, pepper and some hot sauce (or, red hot pepper en polvo).

My workspace is a little different here in Santiago. I LOVE my new wood countertops and see that industrial oven? Hello pizzas, flat breads, muffins, cookies… baking is going to be SO fun with you. This kitchen is HUGE for an average Chilean home. They've got these tiny, tiny gallery kitchens that remind me of small New York kitchens.

Side note, knives in a shared house just aren't as sharp as you want 'em. I'm getting used to doing a little prick, then slicing and dicing. At least in Chile, you can buy knives, lighters and tobacco papers at the same spot. So convenient. 

I faced a big fear this week and I OWN it now.  This stove top is gas. Gotta light it with a match every time you want to cook. Light gas on fire. 

Light gas on fire. Did you hear that? 

I actually had a nightmare the other night that I turned the gas on first, then light the match and my face burned up. This beautiful blonde gringa face - a melted mess. This actually almost happened. Swear.  The trick? Light the match first, put it over the gas holes where you know the fire will be lit. Turn the gas on and BAM.

No big POOF of fire because gas is escaping. MOM - I have street smarts, after all! I can light a stove!!! No more fancy buttons for this lady. I've got legit fire under my pans & a fire in my soul, call it Latin passion. I can even put peppers straight on stovetop for some charred red peppers. YUM. I think I will do that this week.

Side note. Bought some flour today to make the quinoa-corn griddles. Guess what flour is used for? BAKING. Be ready, folks. Chilean pastries - will be mastered by the time I am states-bound.

Missing my weekly kitchen adventures with Kathleen… maybe I'll make a Chinese duck with you in mind, or that ridiculously amazing roasted whole chicken. 

Soccer in Santiago: liga de damas

Joined a soccer league!

All girls, we wear white and purple and play a short field - thank goodness because we don't have any subs! First game of the season and our team photo before the game was great. I've got no soccer socks and the shinguards are made for kids. But, the photographers and official said that we are the most beautiful team. Holler!

If you knew me in high school, I started playing junior year and played defense. First day I didn't know how to pass the ball and definitely couldn't shoot anywhere near the goal.

Yesterday's game? I had about 10 shots on goal BUT I didn't score. AH! SO FRUSTRATING. If you knew me in high school, you knew I was extremely competitive and play to win all the time. Not to brag, but the official, árbitro, came up to me after the game and said, "eres extraordinaria" That was very nice of him.

One of the girls on the team played with the Venezuelan team. Yeah. We are going to be a force at the front, adelante. She's a smarter player than me so hopefully she'll help me gain some control and field-smarts up front. I want to score a goal or pass to Paula to score a goal!!!!!!

But, I am most proud of the fact that I understand the girls on my team. One of the girls finally realized that I was a gringa after a few minutes of chatting. Spanish lessons while playing a sport? How can life get any better?

just don't know if the language on the field is language of damas….I understand the garabatos

In case you want to come to a game, Monday nights. In Las Condes somewhere.

Fiesta: Chilean Style

One weekend, I spent an afternoon reading, "The Help," in Spanish (Senoras y Criadas) on a bench in the park you see to the left. Even went for a long run after a few hours of being immersed in the lives of Aibileen, Miss Skeeter and Hilly.

Calm, tranquil and healthy. BORING.

In the last 48 hours? Bloody nose. Chilean asado (BBQ). 8 hour house party. And keys to my new house.

choripan center stage

Friday night started with a Chilean-style party at my temporary home (thanks Pablo, Thibaud and Rafael) and started with a few Escudos. Pablo, "Tengo mucho hambre"; friends are filling up the house, drinks are flowing, and it's a Friday afternoon with no grill, no food. Naturally - or on impulse -  we headed to the local Tottus, basically Costco, and bought a grill and a lot of choripan. A compulsive buy after a few Escudos meant we fueled up for a party that lasted until 3AM.

Ever thought about your International Number? Brasil, Estonia, Chile, United States, Colombia, France, Great Britian, Brasil, and Spain at one party. 4 languages and at any given time, someone might switch mid-sentence from English to Spanish, from Portuguese to Spanish, or from French to English to Spanish. But, I only speak 1.75 languages! Yes, 3 out of the 4 languages are languages of love, passion and romance.

Woke up the next day, stumbled into the kitchen for a glass of water and this is what I found. Evidence of a damn good party.

alto de carmen: Chilean Pisco of choice? 

mix with Coke, stir in some ice and you've got a Piscola

The Mistral bottles were empty on the table, tinted wine glasses and an empty box of chocolate cereal, sweeter than CocoPuffs, were evidence of a great night. Since the kitchen stove was covered in boxes of Pisco and the kitchen table was covered in empty bottles, we couldn't make any breakfast.

So, why not head out of the city to a true Chilean asado? 


Choripan. Chicken. Red meat, grilled to perfection. Red wine, Pisco Sours, beer, and chips and salsa. Empanadas, too?

The hacienda outside of Santiago is home to avocado trees, peach trees, artichoke plants, a fenced-in soccer field and a pool surrounded by gorgeous flowers. Imagine an outdoor patio with a bamboo roof, views of the mountains and the pool, with a brick oven in the corner and an outdoor fully-stocked bar.

Now imagine a soccer game with Chilean men in their 40s, one Chilean woman and me, plus 2 young kids. Sweaty jeans are just gross. But, so is a bloody nose at an asado. Not attractive at all and I feared waking up with a big purple bruise across my face. Concerned? Still mena y guapa :) To top off the afternoon, the hostess even gifted us with bags of oranges from her orange trees.

So what is Chilean style? An international house party til early the next morning, choripan and red wine at an afternoon asado followed by a soccer game and always sleeping until 1PM.

Oh! And, I joined a women's soccer league!