Sunday in / outside Santiago: Hiking Alto de Naranjo

Urban Hiking in the Andes: Alto de Naranjo 

Going outside is not an escape. It's the place I feel most at home, where the wind moves me and the sound of trees and birds isn't noise but songs of life. The small dot that contrasts against the blue sky isn't a peak, it's the place I feel most grounded and most alive. Nothing fills my soul like a few hours outside, scrambling up boulders and drinking the fresh air.

Ever hear a bird song that sounds like a person whistling? I thought someone had fallen overboard (can you do that on a mountain?) and was stuck in the centuries-old cactus field from the sound of this bird. Did I whistle back? The bird was probably looking for its sexy bird buddy but I was celebrating the blue sky and breeze. 

And, we saw a really cool bird! It's called a Tinamou and apparently, not seen often. 

not my photo, thanks go to these guys

 He scared the daylights out of me. I think about pumas, mountain lions, and of course think that the scrambling sound will be my last song before the attack. But no, pumas live deep into Patagonia, very far away from me.  

My friend Carissa, also from Michigan (crazy!), and I went on a Sunday hike together. It was super foggy in the morning but turned into a perfect fall hiking day. We drove just 20 minutes from my place in Las Condes to the Catolica soccer/futbol stadium at San Carlos de Apoquindo. Basically, all the way "up" in Santiago. The neighborhood is dreamy: houses with yards, quiet streets lined with trees and clean, fresh no-smog air. 

We parked at the stadium - free-  and walked through the baby soccer fields to the trailhead. We saw some micros, so I'm betting there is public transportation to this trailhead.  

*Note: try not to go the same day as a game! I'm betting it turns into a madhouse!

You need to pay 1.500 pesos ($3.00US) to use the trails and it is worth it! The trails are so clean and very well-marked. They have actual trail posts that point you in the right direction. I think it is my first time seeing those in Chile!  

There is a big map at the start and a really friendly park ranger that helped us get oriented; we took off for Alto de Naranjo. We shared the trail with a few groups of intense mountain bikers for the first 2 hours and then ran into less than 10 people on the rest of the hike up. There were some narrow parts of the trail and that of course, is where we stepped out of the way of the descending bikers. 

*There is another trailhead from a puente which is bike-free and about the same distance and time as our hike. 

It was beautiful! The desert colors and bright blue sky make for the perfect painting. The hike is not difficult, there are very few semi-steep sections and if you're in hiking shoes, you're fine. Carissa had on tennis shoes, the footing was a bit tricky in a few spots but she made it!  Along the way there are great views of Santiago (on a low-smog day) and towards the Andes. At one point, we could see the ski resorts, they looked like dollhouses!

This hike takes you to a big tree, out of place on a mountain covered in cactus and desert shrub. You have the option of crossing to another peak and staying the night in a refugio. But that was 4 km and 3 hours away. Not in our day hike plan. 

what shade of blue is that? blue heaven! 

We had packed a tipico Chilean lunch: bread, avocado, tomato and ham with some fresh fruit and a bag of nuts. Side story, I think I'm averaging half an avocado per day. When I grow up, I want an avocado tree outside my kitchen window. Daily guacamole. Avocado/tequila soap. Avocado face masks and avocado/orange juice. YUM. You're all invited! 

After a relaxing lunch with the coolest international family ever (two young boys were perfectly bilingual and the parents were rad) we headed back down.  Carissa, you are a great hiking friend! We had so much fun chatting and listening to nature. Thanks Carissa, for the company, goodies and covering my entrance fee! 

Needless to say, we were DUSTY. My white socks were Dustbowl brown when I got home. My hair felt like straw and I had a fine layer of Andes dirt on my face. 

And the next day my body felt strong, healthy and ready for the week. 

Should you do this hike? Yes! And look for me, I'll be out there again!

#LollaCL: Music Festival in Santiago

2 days of music in a big park? Yes, please! My ears and feet are desperate for some live music after months of DJs and sad Santiago radio stations. Lollapalooza Chile started a few years ago and this year it brought us Elle Goulding, Phoenix, Imagine Dragons, Portugal. the Man, Cage the Elephant, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Capital Cities and a few Chilean artists, too. p.s. Francisca Valenzuela is the only Chilean heading to Chicago so if you're going, check her out! 

Tickets are pricier than Chicago, obviously. You are bringing bands to South America! Plus, Santiago is expensive and exclusive. Who goes to Lollapalooza? People with money;  the upper middle-class buy tickets for their teenage kids to run around, the socialists go to try to be seen and be photographed and then there are the Americans. Something mind boggling? The Early Bird tickets sold out in 1 day; they go for $90 US and are before the bands are published. So, you buy a ticket before knowing who is coming? Crazy! 

My theory is that the ticket is priced to bring a certain social crowd in and keep certain socioeconomic groups out. How sad !!  Is that how music festivals are in the States, too? I don't know. I just can sense the politics of the social caste system here as sharp as Cheddar. 

Enough about politics. Let's talk about how FUN it is to dance to live music! I loved dancing to Vampire Weekend on Sunday afternoon and before them, Portugal. the Man. Both said it was their first time to South America and they were loving the vibes!

What did I love best about Lolla? Pablo took me to listen to bands that he knows and likes but were new to me, and I did the same. He introduced me to Anita Tijoux, a Chilean hip hop performer. She put on an awesome show but even better, she is a class-act. Some of those rich Chileans I mentioned earlier were yelling mean things to her during her concert. First, show some class. Second, why go to her show if you're bringing negative vibes? Find somewhere else to try to be cool. Lolla was started to share the love of music and support live music.  @anita I danced, smiled and am a new fan! 

Pablo is a new fan of Imagine Dragons and Phoenix. Hooray! 

My favorite concert? Vampire Weekend!  I danced like a crazy girl, jumping up and down and around the whole hour. I have been listening to them for a while and they were the band I have wanted to see live for some time. And they delivered great music. 

Unexpectedly great? Elle Goulding is an artistic character and she's got a great voice!

Criticism? Chileans smoke a lot. And with 70,000 people in a very crowded park I was breathing secondhand smoke from at least 5,000 people almost all day. It was awful. There were too many people there; constant pushing to move through the crowds and very little grass space to sit. You couldn't sit and listen to the bands because with so many people, you had to stand and defend your spot.  The overcrowded park and smoking were hard to ignore. I don't think I'd go to Lolla2015.  

Also, trash. How can you consciously keep your trash on the grass and not feel bad? There is a general lack of responsibility and pride in their public spaces. There were enough trash bins but way too much garbage on the ground. I'm talking about bags of chips, wine bottles, and thousands of cigarette butts. To help someone not in Chile understand, these concert-goers have had full-time nannies in their house their whole life so they've never had to clean one bathroom or sweep a floor. 

organic apples for sale by biker!

Were the shows great? No. The bands play for about an hour each so they play a mix of old and new tunes. There weren't lights or even a WOW factor. Just music. 

What else was there? There was a big kids area with their own kids stage, games and arts activities. At the main entrance to the park you first walk by a Playstation tent where people were lined up every day to play videogames.  There was a corner with lots of potential but noticeably a lack of action: the Sustainability Corner. Lots of organic/natural booths with cool products but lame vendors. You walk by and they don't engage with casual or interested potential clients. 

Would I go again? Probably not. I'd rather go backpacking in the south for a long weekend or surfing at the coast. Am I glad I went? Heck yes! 

What's playing on my youtube right now? the full Imagine Dragons album!

An Ode to My Parents

An Ode to My Parents

Captain Mike and Nurse Nancy

My loving, supportive parents

Humble and full of "honey, did you..?"

or "honey, can you...?"

those parents of mine

They sometimes work, and often play

play: hop on a plane and let's travel somewhere today!

As parents of two strong, smart and silly daughters 

that live far away

a weekend in Seattle, Denver or New York means eating and drinking

with a local to be sure to mark their way

They taught me to read, play baseball and ride a bike

They checked my homework and made sure I had something to eat

I learned discipline, hard work and hope

They showed me the world

and trust me to make it a better place

Every dream was pursued

Every wish could become real

My work ethic, my drive are truly thanks to them

Dad helps, coaches and lets out big laughs with a smile

Mom sets the bar high and believes with a steadfast faith

I teach because they instilled in me courage

and encouraged me to lead

to set my own path and 

follow my dreams

I earned my wings at just a few months old

no matter where I land or where I live

you are always there

I don't say this lightly,

in name, in mind and forever

in my heart

Soccer (fútbol) in Santiago: I Survived a Colo-Colo Game

victory cheers at the end of a close 3-2 match

Victory for Colo Colo! At the start of a new season, Chile's most supported fútbol team hit the ground running with an electric match with the Italian team (whose players and staff are Chileans, but the team is, from my understanding, owned by the Italian mafia in Chile). 

Ready to experience a Latin American professional soccer game? 

"Look as ugly as possible." That's what Pablo told me the first time we went to the stadium together. No escote, no cell phone, no jewelry, wear an old shirt and don't bring a purse. Do I need to hide my blond hair, too? And the safety precautions continued at the stadium. 

As we walked from the parking lot to the stadium, people are selling Colo Colo jerseys, fried foods, completos, water bottles and I may have seen a weed exchange in the street. Sidewalks are full of families with baby fans, inebriated university guys with their half-dressed girlfriends and cops on horses. Pushing and shoving are the norm as everyone wants to get through the 3 security checks to get into the stadium. 

I can't figured out why there are so many security checks: they barely looked at my ticket, no one checked for my ID even though their are scanners and you'd be shocked at the number of homemade bombs thrown at the opposing fans. They even let you take in open water bottles!

It is a one-sided stadium. You have to be crazy to go to a visiting stadium to watch a game. There is no sportsmanship between fans. Sure, the South has some violent college football games among drunk fans; the difference is that here, anyone could be a victim of random adrenaline-driven violence. In a stadium of almost 50,000 seats, less than 300 are visitor fans. At the end of some games, they dismiss the home team fans first and the visiting fans have to wait almost an hour in leaving the stadium to avoid street brawls.  

see the sunny side? Cheapest tickets & wild

The first time I went to a game, Pablo took me and 2 other Colorado friends (hey Mike and Travis!) and it was a hot, hot day. We bought the cheapest tickets which meant direct sunlight for the majority of the game. And there are no seat assignments so we ended up sitting in the aisle next to shirtless, drunk men whose vocabulary consists of only 3 of the worst street garabatos. There were no families in that section. For my second game, we sat on the opposite side - shaded, assigned seats and lots of babies at their first Colo Colo game. But don't expect a churchy crowd. These guys have a sailor's mouth. If you want to learn Chilean swear words - go to a soccer game. Into the next day they were still rolling off my tongue. I guess I learn Spanish by osmosis and thankfully, can distinguish between the bad and really awful chilanismos. 

What else should you know about stadiums in Chile? They don't sell alcohol. None. Also, when we were walking into the first security check, Pablo told me to keep my ticket hidden and only show it to the person working. Chileans steal. Even paper tickets at stadiums. Unbelievable.  The concession stand ran out of water and beverages and even weirder, they don't have soda fountain machines; they sell beverages out of glass bottles and pour it for you into a paper cup.  One of the most savage things? There are 2 fenced in sections. Fences around people. To what extent do you show such extreme emotion that you are fenced in like an animal? 

Don't sit in the fenced area unless you like tear gas, homemade bombs and no mercy. If you want to go - get tickets in the other sections and try to go with a Chilean. You can get to the stadium by metro but beware, they close stations for crowd control so you need to know where nearby stations are. 

Is it worth it? Yes! I have to now, Pablo just bought me a Colo Colo jersey. 

Chilean Dream: Andes Mountains + Pacific Coast Adventure

Snow in the summer?  Enough for us to feel cold! At 10,000 feet and only 46 km away from Santiago is Valle Nevado, one of Santiago's main ski centers. We weren't skiing or climbing with ice cramps. Just a leisurely hike up and away from the ski center. 

With only 3 days in Santiago, how would I show the best of living here to my friends?  The Andes! But, what about the coast, and surfing in Chile?   

No matter what, I knew we'd have a blast. Nevertheless, I was hoping to plan for an epic experience. Just a little history, when Emily and I lived together, we had a blast sipping coffee and eating scones. She'd tell me to make lists to plan my life, and I'd feed her booze-infused baked goods. She recruited Holly (who I had met once in Denver) for a 2-week SA adventure, starting in Santiago. I'm deeply thankful for their visit, their positive energy and sense of curiosity. Tranquila tequila! 

Back to my dilemma - The Andes are awesome but I also wanted to take them to the Chilean coast, just 2 hours in the other direction. 

see the ski center way below? 

Why not hike in the Andes and take a surf lesson in one day? I'm guessing there aren't too many places in the world where you can be at 9,900 feet hiking (or skiing in winter) and then cruise to the coast for an afternoon of surfing.

Around 8:30AM on a Sunday we headed east to the Cordillera with Pablo at the wheel. As we made our way up the mountain, a bike race was starting; they were biking from Santiago to the ski center. That's a climb from 1700 feet to 9900 feet - a change of 8200 feet! 

One important fact: driving up to the ski centers is on one curvy, windy road that just goes up and up. We saw a gaucho, a few Andean condors and sparkly New Years trees.  

Oh, the fresh, crisp mountain air makes my whole body and soul smile. Our energy was just perfect on the drive up and at the ski center. Pablo says I had a permanent smile on my face all day :) Those rough, ragged mountain peaks are so fierce, jutting into the sky but also a reminder of how flexible and forgiving our earth can be with their curves and waterfalls.  

We hiked up for a while, always towards the big patch of white. After some resting and snacks we followed a cat-walk around a curve and - there it was! It caused sheer joy and lots of jumping. Our giddiness is what you'd expect for someone who is seeing snow for the first time and it was intoxicating. It was just our laughter and the big, blue sky. 

Why did we have so much fun? We all dived into the day ready to laugh, to enjoy being together and to be fully be present. Just add onto that million-dollar views, a hike and.... an afternoon surfing!

How did we do all this in a day? 

After a lovely lunch at the ski hotel, we headed down from the mountains back to Santiago. Because our sexy driver needed a 30-minute nap, we did a gear swap then headed west;  by 5PM we were in our wetsuits. You may have already spotted our surf instructor eyeing over Holly (see photo above) - ah, latino love. 

Our surf class was hilarious. 5 minute warm-up jumping on a trampoline and about 10 minutes learning to stand up on the tabla, set up on one of those wobbly exercise discs. Small detail: I had to translate the class from Spanish to English with words like acostado, medio de la tabla, flexionar los brazos.. 

Since Pablo already knows how to surf, he left us with the strapping surf instructor, Alexi. Ten cuidado! He was flirting with all of us within 5 minutes. Good thing he isn't just a pretty face - we all surfed! He'd push us into the just-right baby wave, support the surfboard and tell us right when to stand. I may have done my victory dance on top of my surfboard. Ask Pablo and he'll tell you all about it.

I'd say we earned our fried empanadas and Chilean beers! 

Thanks SO much for coming to visit, Emily & Holly! Come back for Tranquila Tequila 2!

Saturday in Santiago: TRX in Parque Araucano

Why didn't I figure it out earlier that taking group fitness classes is such an effective method to learn Spanish! You are listening, copying kinesthetic movements and repeating them over and over. Wouldn't it be great to have Spanish and gym class as 1 class in high school? 

I recently joined a gym (finally!) because of its groups classes, small boutique feel and most important, location. It's a 4 minute jog from my place and can be quite entertaining. Something that rarely happens in the States but frequently is part of my sidewalk commute: catcalls; love it or hate it, it happens. There are days when I laugh about it and other days get me fired up, wanting to belittle them for whistling at me. Has anyone ever gone off on a Chilean man for whistling and hollering, or will I be the first?

Anyway, after my first TRX class I had trouble washing my hair for the next 3 days. I love that type of soreness, you can feel the fibers braiding together, creating stronger muscles. When do I get that beautiful tricep line to come back?  Even more important-  How many Spanish-speaking beefy men have led you through a sweat session?  

That's what I thought. The Spinning coach and the TRX trainer are both extremely fit, super nice and consistent at coaching you to get the most out of class. I'm hooked. After a class, the profe told me about a Saturday morning class he does at the park, the park you can see out my window. Outdoor exercise is 100% more motivating and enjoyable than being in a gym, so why not?

Our park is fabulous: there are tennis courts, basketball courts, space for futbolitos, a maze of paths for running and biking and some simple work-out machines. On occasion, I've seen workout groups and wondered how to join in without an awkward approach. Now, I get to be in the group!

My friend Stephanie was up for the challenge too so on a Saturday morning, with the sun shining but not yet too hot, we met the group at the tennis courts. As Fabian, the instructor, set up the TRX ropes to the tennis court fence we chatted about the upcoming 4-day weekend and fun girly stuff. But when it came down to class time, we put on our game faces. 

An hour later I was dead. I could already feel the tear and build deep in my gluteal muscles. PLEASE don't be broken today, elevator! 3 days later Steph told me she was still sore - and so was I!  Squats, 1-leg squats, some squat-jump move, and oh the floating planks and push-ups at the end were killer. The Y-move is so tough when you do it correctly. Fabian and Manuel co-lead the class, constantly commenting on form and position to make it tougher. You will leave sore, and wake up the next day sore.

skull crushers!

This second class we did was hilarious because 2 of the moves required lateral movements. With 6 people packed in close we had to move at the same time to avoid any bumping. But my neighbor either 1) doesn't know how to jump or 2) doesn't know left from right. She was silly.

It's a buena onda class, costa 3.000 pesos ($6US) for a TRX class in the open air. Come! And yes, it is in Spanish! Bring a water bottle and be prepared to leave with a solid new behind! 

Saturday outside Santiago: Rio Clarillo

Sunny with a side of rushing water made for a spectacular day at Río Clarillo. It's a park just south of Santiago, in the suburb of Pirque - where the internationally known winery Concho y Toro was born.

To get there, there are micros and colectivos but we drove Súper Rojo to the park, paid our fee then found parking in the shade. My grand idea was to hike. Get to the top and be able to look into a green, lush valley. Pablo was along for the ride. Poor guy, he's dating a girl that lived in Colorado and lives for adventure when his ideal weekend is: sleep, and sleep a lot. Good thing he's a Boy Scout and with a little coaxing, he's right by my side.  

We went without knowing where to hike and at first, ended up smelling more asados than vegetation. It was great to see so many families enjoying the outdoors: grilling, swimming in the river and playing soccer. Do you think they'd notice if we joined in their party? No Chilean family is smaller than 30 people - they might think we're just another set of cousins! One day, I'll find the chutzpah to introduce myself as Pablo's girlfriend (true), because every Chilean family has at least one Pablo,  and start small talking. Being Chilean, they'll have to offer me a choripan and bebida. Let's just hope their Pablo is a single man under 70 years old!  

After meandering, we eventually found a hanging bridge and a trail map. We followed the well-marked trail and made our way to the lookout point for a clear view of the green valley and in the distance, the peaks of the Andes.  Bridges are fascinating, right? Someone designed and constructed a walkway over rushing water. You've got to have a deep understanding of geometric modeling, weight and movement conditions and the necessary suspension pressure.  If one calculation is off, that bridge could not hold you. Think about that the next time you cross the Mackinaw Bridge or San Francisco's Big Red. 

There's something calming and rejuvenating about being next to a river; it's like a shower for my soul and cleans out what's dusty and dirty, leaving me feeling like I'm shining bright like a diamond.  I feel most myself when I'm out there, me and Mother Earth. It's when I think most clearly, solve problems and project my path in life. Deep, no?  If you're wondering, I'm still searching for the meaning of living abroad and my purpose in life. In the meantime, I'll keep hiking. 

After hiking, we boulder hopped to a shady spot along the river to snack and reflect on life's big questions: Where should we travel next? How bad do you want to eat an empanada right now? 

If you need a day without hearing car horns, with clean(er) air and a place to swim - Rio Clarillo is a fabulous spot! There are plenty of BBQs and picnic tables with plenty of shade, lots of parking spaces and rocks perfect for soaking in the sun.