An Ode to My Parents

An Ode to My Parents

Captain Mike and Nurse Nancy

My loving, supportive parents

Humble and full of "honey, did you..?"

or "honey, can you...?"

those parents of mine

They sometimes work, and often play

play: hop on a plane and let's travel somewhere today!

As parents of two strong, smart and silly daughters 

that live far away

a weekend in Seattle, Denver or New York means eating and drinking

with a local to be sure to mark their way

They taught me to read, play baseball and ride a bike

They checked my homework and made sure I had something to eat

I learned discipline, hard work and hope

They showed me the world

and trust me to make it a better place

Every dream was pursued

Every wish could become real

My work ethic, my drive are truly thanks to them

Dad helps, coaches and lets out big laughs with a smile

Mom sets the bar high and believes with a steadfast faith

I teach because they instilled in me courage

and encouraged me to lead

to set my own path and 

follow my dreams

I earned my wings at just a few months old

no matter where I land or where I live

you are always there

I don't say this lightly,

in name, in mind and forever

in my heart

Soccer (fútbol) in Santiago: I Survived a Colo-Colo Game

victory cheers at the end of a close 3-2 match

Victory for Colo Colo! At the start of a new season, Chile's most supported fútbol team hit the ground running with an electric match with the Italian team (whose players and staff are Chileans, but the team is, from my understanding, owned by the Italian mafia in Chile). 

Ready to experience a Latin American professional soccer game? 

"Look as ugly as possible." That's what Pablo told me the first time we went to the stadium together. No escote, no cell phone, no jewelry, wear an old shirt and don't bring a purse. Do I need to hide my blond hair, too? And the safety precautions continued at the stadium. 

As we walked from the parking lot to the stadium, people are selling Colo Colo jerseys, fried foods, completos, water bottles and I may have seen a weed exchange in the street. Sidewalks are full of families with baby fans, inebriated university guys with their half-dressed girlfriends and cops on horses. Pushing and shoving are the norm as everyone wants to get through the 3 security checks to get into the stadium. 

I can't figured out why there are so many security checks: they barely looked at my ticket, no one checked for my ID even though their are scanners and you'd be shocked at the number of homemade bombs thrown at the opposing fans. They even let you take in open water bottles!

It is a one-sided stadium. You have to be crazy to go to a visiting stadium to watch a game. There is no sportsmanship between fans. Sure, the South has some violent college football games among drunk fans; the difference is that here, anyone could be a victim of random adrenaline-driven violence. In a stadium of almost 50,000 seats, less than 300 are visitor fans. At the end of some games, they dismiss the home team fans first and the visiting fans have to wait almost an hour in leaving the stadium to avoid street brawls.  

see the sunny side? Cheapest tickets & wild

The first time I went to a game, Pablo took me and 2 other Colorado friends (hey Mike and Travis!) and it was a hot, hot day. We bought the cheapest tickets which meant direct sunlight for the majority of the game. And there are no seat assignments so we ended up sitting in the aisle next to shirtless, drunk men whose vocabulary consists of only 3 of the worst street garabatos. There were no families in that section. For my second game, we sat on the opposite side - shaded, assigned seats and lots of babies at their first Colo Colo game. But don't expect a churchy crowd. These guys have a sailor's mouth. If you want to learn Chilean swear words - go to a soccer game. Into the next day they were still rolling off my tongue. I guess I learn Spanish by osmosis and thankfully, can distinguish between the bad and really awful chilanismos. 

What else should you know about stadiums in Chile? They don't sell alcohol. None. Also, when we were walking into the first security check, Pablo told me to keep my ticket hidden and only show it to the person working. Chileans steal. Even paper tickets at stadiums. Unbelievable.  The concession stand ran out of water and beverages and even weirder, they don't have soda fountain machines; they sell beverages out of glass bottles and pour it for you into a paper cup.  One of the most savage things? There are 2 fenced in sections. Fences around people. To what extent do you show such extreme emotion that you are fenced in like an animal? 

Don't sit in the fenced area unless you like tear gas, homemade bombs and no mercy. If you want to go - get tickets in the other sections and try to go with a Chilean. You can get to the stadium by metro but beware, they close stations for crowd control so you need to know where nearby stations are. 

Is it worth it? Yes! I have to now, Pablo just bought me a Colo Colo jersey. 

Chilean Dream: Andes Mountains + Pacific Coast Adventure

Snow in the summer?  Enough for us to feel cold! At 10,000 feet and only 46 km away from Santiago is Valle Nevado, one of Santiago's main ski centers. We weren't skiing or climbing with ice cramps. Just a leisurely hike up and away from the ski center. 

With only 3 days in Santiago, how would I show the best of living here to my friends?  The Andes! But, what about the coast, and surfing in Chile?   

No matter what, I knew we'd have a blast. Nevertheless, I was hoping to plan for an epic experience. Just a little history, when Emily and I lived together, we had a blast sipping coffee and eating scones. She'd tell me to make lists to plan my life, and I'd feed her booze-infused baked goods. She recruited Holly (who I had met once in Denver) for a 2-week SA adventure, starting in Santiago. I'm deeply thankful for their visit, their positive energy and sense of curiosity. Tranquila tequila! 

Back to my dilemma - The Andes are awesome but I also wanted to take them to the Chilean coast, just 2 hours in the other direction. 

see the ski center way below? 

Why not hike in the Andes and take a surf lesson in one day? I'm guessing there aren't too many places in the world where you can be at 9,900 feet hiking (or skiing in winter) and then cruise to the coast for an afternoon of surfing.

Around 8:30AM on a Sunday we headed east to the Cordillera with Pablo at the wheel. As we made our way up the mountain, a bike race was starting; they were biking from Santiago to the ski center. That's a climb from 1700 feet to 9900 feet - a change of 8200 feet! 

One important fact: driving up to the ski centers is on one curvy, windy road that just goes up and up. We saw a gaucho, a few Andean condors and sparkly New Years trees.  

Oh, the fresh, crisp mountain air makes my whole body and soul smile. Our energy was just perfect on the drive up and at the ski center. Pablo says I had a permanent smile on my face all day :) Those rough, ragged mountain peaks are so fierce, jutting into the sky but also a reminder of how flexible and forgiving our earth can be with their curves and waterfalls.  

We hiked up for a while, always towards the big patch of white. After some resting and snacks we followed a cat-walk around a curve and - there it was! It caused sheer joy and lots of jumping. Our giddiness is what you'd expect for someone who is seeing snow for the first time and it was intoxicating. It was just our laughter and the big, blue sky. 

Why did we have so much fun? We all dived into the day ready to laugh, to enjoy being together and to be fully be present. Just add onto that million-dollar views, a hike and.... an afternoon surfing!

How did we do all this in a day? 

After a lovely lunch at the ski hotel, we headed down from the mountains back to Santiago. Because our sexy driver needed a 30-minute nap, we did a gear swap then headed west;  by 5PM we were in our wetsuits. You may have already spotted our surf instructor eyeing over Holly (see photo above) - ah, latino love. 

Our surf class was hilarious. 5 minute warm-up jumping on a trampoline and about 10 minutes learning to stand up on the tabla, set up on one of those wobbly exercise discs. Small detail: I had to translate the class from Spanish to English with words like acostado, medio de la tabla, flexionar los brazos.. 

Since Pablo already knows how to surf, he left us with the strapping surf instructor, Alexi. Ten cuidado! He was flirting with all of us within 5 minutes. Good thing he isn't just a pretty face - we all surfed! He'd push us into the just-right baby wave, support the surfboard and tell us right when to stand. I may have done my victory dance on top of my surfboard. Ask Pablo and he'll tell you all about it.

I'd say we earned our fried empanadas and Chilean beers! 

Thanks SO much for coming to visit, Emily & Holly! Come back for Tranquila Tequila 2!

Saturday in Santiago: TRX in Parque Araucano

Why didn't I figure it out earlier that taking group fitness classes is such an effective method to learn Spanish! You are listening, copying kinesthetic movements and repeating them over and over. Wouldn't it be great to have Spanish and gym class as 1 class in high school? 

I recently joined a gym (finally!) because of its groups classes, small boutique feel and most important, location. It's a 4 minute jog from my place and can be quite entertaining. Something that rarely happens in the States but frequently is part of my sidewalk commute: catcalls; love it or hate it, it happens. There are days when I laugh about it and other days get me fired up, wanting to belittle them for whistling at me. Has anyone ever gone off on a Chilean man for whistling and hollering, or will I be the first?

Anyway, after my first TRX class I had trouble washing my hair for the next 3 days. I love that type of soreness, you can feel the fibers braiding together, creating stronger muscles. When do I get that beautiful tricep line to come back?  Even more important-  How many Spanish-speaking beefy men have led you through a sweat session?  

That's what I thought. The Spinning coach and the TRX trainer are both extremely fit, super nice and consistent at coaching you to get the most out of class. I'm hooked. After a class, the profe told me about a Saturday morning class he does at the park, the park you can see out my window. Outdoor exercise is 100% more motivating and enjoyable than being in a gym, so why not?

Our park is fabulous: there are tennis courts, basketball courts, space for futbolitos, a maze of paths for running and biking and some simple work-out machines. On occasion, I've seen workout groups and wondered how to join in without an awkward approach. Now, I get to be in the group!

My friend Stephanie was up for the challenge too so on a Saturday morning, with the sun shining but not yet too hot, we met the group at the tennis courts. As Fabian, the instructor, set up the TRX ropes to the tennis court fence we chatted about the upcoming 4-day weekend and fun girly stuff. But when it came down to class time, we put on our game faces. 

An hour later I was dead. I could already feel the tear and build deep in my gluteal muscles. PLEASE don't be broken today, elevator! 3 days later Steph told me she was still sore - and so was I!  Squats, 1-leg squats, some squat-jump move, and oh the floating planks and push-ups at the end were killer. The Y-move is so tough when you do it correctly. Fabian and Manuel co-lead the class, constantly commenting on form and position to make it tougher. You will leave sore, and wake up the next day sore.

skull crushers!

This second class we did was hilarious because 2 of the moves required lateral movements. With 6 people packed in close we had to move at the same time to avoid any bumping. But my neighbor either 1) doesn't know how to jump or 2) doesn't know left from right. She was silly.

It's a buena onda class, costa 3.000 pesos ($6US) for a TRX class in the open air. Come! And yes, it is in Spanish! Bring a water bottle and be prepared to leave with a solid new behind! 

Saturday outside Santiago: Rio Clarillo

Sunny with a side of rushing water made for a spectacular day at Río Clarillo. It's a park just south of Santiago, in the suburb of Pirque - where the internationally known winery Concho y Toro was born.

To get there, there are micros and colectivos but we drove Súper Rojo to the park, paid our fee then found parking in the shade. My grand idea was to hike. Get to the top and be able to look into a green, lush valley. Pablo was along for the ride. Poor guy, he's dating a girl that lived in Colorado and lives for adventure when his ideal weekend is: sleep, and sleep a lot. Good thing he's a Boy Scout and with a little coaxing, he's right by my side.  

We went without knowing where to hike and at first, ended up smelling more asados than vegetation. It was great to see so many families enjoying the outdoors: grilling, swimming in the river and playing soccer. Do you think they'd notice if we joined in their party? No Chilean family is smaller than 30 people - they might think we're just another set of cousins! One day, I'll find the chutzpah to introduce myself as Pablo's girlfriend (true), because every Chilean family has at least one Pablo,  and start small talking. Being Chilean, they'll have to offer me a choripan and bebida. Let's just hope their Pablo is a single man under 70 years old!  

After meandering, we eventually found a hanging bridge and a trail map. We followed the well-marked trail and made our way to the lookout point for a clear view of the green valley and in the distance, the peaks of the Andes.  Bridges are fascinating, right? Someone designed and constructed a walkway over rushing water. You've got to have a deep understanding of geometric modeling, weight and movement conditions and the necessary suspension pressure.  If one calculation is off, that bridge could not hold you. Think about that the next time you cross the Mackinaw Bridge or San Francisco's Big Red. 

There's something calming and rejuvenating about being next to a river; it's like a shower for my soul and cleans out what's dusty and dirty, leaving me feeling like I'm shining bright like a diamond.  I feel most myself when I'm out there, me and Mother Earth. It's when I think most clearly, solve problems and project my path in life. Deep, no?  If you're wondering, I'm still searching for the meaning of living abroad and my purpose in life. In the meantime, I'll keep hiking. 

After hiking, we boulder hopped to a shady spot along the river to snack and reflect on life's big questions: Where should we travel next? How bad do you want to eat an empanada right now? 

If you need a day without hearing car horns, with clean(er) air and a place to swim - Rio Clarillo is a fabulous spot! There are plenty of BBQs and picnic tables with plenty of shade, lots of parking spaces and rocks perfect for soaking in the sun.  

What Does the Typical Chilean Eat?

If you know me, you know I appreciate food and the social act of eating. Getting together with family, friends or new colleagues around a shared meal is FUN.  If we are going to eat 3-4 times a day, why not enjoy it?

My seafood sampling at a port restaurant in Valparaiso, Chile 

My palette is quite diverse: seafood, fresh vegetables, varieties of rice, sushi, spicy, Indian, Peruvian. When I came to Chile I made a foodie observation right away: no diversity. Grocery stores are stocked with the same 1 brand of cereal/bread/rice/tea for the whole aisle. Look in people's grocery carts: all the same items but different families.

Cooking in Patagonia with fresh vegetables from our garden

Before I share my WHOA! observation about Chilean socio-economic levels + food, let me start with the USofA. As a teacher in low-income neighborhoods, I taught students who received free breakfast and lunch. Being with them for 7+ hours a day gave me insight into their eating habits: Hot Cheetos, pizza, french fries and other high caloric, high sugar content, low nutritional benefit foods. In comparison to my students from middle/high income homes who ate fruit, sandwiches and somewhat more nutritional foods. When I was a teenager, I ate a mix of school lunches (Fenton's massive chocolate chip cookies and decent salad bar) and healthier, homemade lunches. 

In the US, kids from low-income homes are eating what's federally funded and their options aren't healthy or tasty.

**Full disclosure** I am not judging anyone. I just like to observe, notice trends and make sense of the world around me. 

In Chile, the kids from extremely wealthy families ($15,000/year tuition) and kids from low-income families (less than $50/year in school fees) eat the same food: hot dogs with mayonnaise, rice and chicken, tasteless crackers, cheap dry cookies, french fries with mayonnaise, chicken soup, ham and cheese sandwiches, avocado and turkey on white bread. They all drink the same: Coke. Big bottles of Coke and Fanta are everywhere.  It is not easy to find a Chilean teenager or adult who does not eat these foods. Babies - less than 2 years old - drink Fanta. My jaw wants to drop seeing a baby drink corn syrup!

How do I know this? I work in 5 different low-economic neighborhoods in Santiago, I live in one of the wealthiest, privileged parts of the city. In Round 1 to Chile (2005) I worked in the poorest part of the city and lived in a very wealthy neighborhood. 

How is it that two worlds that never collide eat the same foods? How is it possible that from North to South they eat the same thing.  Who wants to eat bland rice with bland chicken? Or white bread - Wonder bread's Latino cousin - with avocado and tasteless cheese? In a society so fixed on not mixing below their socio-economic status, how do they chew the same bread, prepare the same exact salad in the whole country, and drink the same plain Lipton tea?

Good thing I eat up all the fruits and vegetables, mix them up and totally shock people when I eat the skin of tomatoes/potatoes/cucumbers. (yeah, it's the best part!)

An (uninsured) American in Chile

Obamacare. How many times have you heard that this week? Here in Chile I've heard it mentioned a few times on the radio.

Today marks the opening of the new federal health insurance marketplaces. A place to buy your health insurance plan - to carry out the new law that all Americans must have health insurance. Is all health insurance equal? No. Will all Americans have health insurance plans? No. Will people receive a fine? Yes.

Do you know how to prevent needing health care?  Hmm. 

The issue should not be the law. The question I as is How do I stay healthy so I don't need health care? and Is there a connection between the furious and the unhealthy?

Sure, there are people with cancer. They need health care. But the preventative diseases that millions are suffering from: heart disease, stroke, diabetes, pain, respiratory problems from smoking/obesity, etc.

Sit with this one for a bit. Aren't those related to mental health care issues?  There is choice involved in taking care of the 1 body you have and when you make choices that negatively affect your body you better be paying for those choices from your own pocket.

Back to me and my special case. I don't like to break the law (too often) so when the law says I need health care - I wonder, what about me?

I'm a US citizen living and legally working in Santiago, Chile. However, I still work part-time for Teach for America and thus, receive a US salary and have to manage my US taxes. But I also am not a resident of Chile.  Who has the answer?