Travel in Chile: Patagonia and Torres del Paine

Travel in Chile: Patagonia / Torres del Paine

Have you ever felt a love so powerful that it shoots from your heart like a star and yet stays deeply rooted in your spirit? 

Patagonia. 

Patagonia is the wild in my heart and the peace I seek in my soul. 

I find that I feel balanced in mind, spirit and body under the Patagonia sky. 

When do you feel balanced? 

I try to balance in yoga and it isn't easy for me! I fight gravity and fight weakness and usually come out a bit stronger and temporarily calm and empowered. But what does it feel like to be organically balanced? I believe that Patagonia is that example for us. A garden of unparalleled balance in beauty, power, and life.  

My camping partner. Good thing he's a Boy Scout!

Or maybe this is what the 60s were like for all those people in tie dye. Maybe the tie die was a way to express the magnitude of color in their hearts and live vividly, live boldly! That is Patagonia. She's bold, she's vivid and I am so grateful for the time I have spent in her wild spirited winds and rains. 

The W
We decided to complete the W Trek and to do that we would be carrying all our supplies: tent, food, clothes in order to camp over the course of 3 nights and 4 days.
I planned our meals so of course they were healthy and included lots of chocolate! Lots of oatmeal, nuts, seeds, dried fruits, Snickers bars, cookies and ramen, instant soup and instant taters. Starbucks Via, you are the best camping coffee!


Getting There
We arrived to Punta Arenas late at night, stayed in a B&B with hopes of being on the first bus out of Punta Arenas towards Puerto Natales. There are no direct buses from Punta Arenas to the park. Gotta love the free market monopolies in the transportation industry in Chile. 

Of course we missed our bus in the morning because our alarm clock was my running watch that was an hour off! 

Day 1 heading towards Refugio Chileno

Lesson #1 in Chile: If you have a plan, Patagonia has a better one for you. My advice? Less planning for your Patagonia trip leads to much more fun! 

We laughed it off, got tickets for the later morning bus that would still get us to our connecting bus and enjoyed the morning in Chile's most southern city. 

Once we were in Puerto Natales we took another bus to the park. 

Quick note on Puerto Natales. The whole town closes for lunch from 12 - 3 pm. If you get there expecting to do last minute shopping, make sure you are there in the early morning before your bus or are there for the evening before you head to the park. We didn't consider this and needed some essential camping gear that we couldn't get. We prayed we could find those items in the park. 

And then we started Day 1 of Hiking. 

We started off heading up and away from one of the main lodges and into a valley. This is the day our packs were heaviest so we struggled and quickly were sweating as we climbed up into the river gorge. 

No, we didn't plan on our matching orange shirts and red packs. The more I look from one picture to the next I laugh even more. Out of all the colors and shirts... 

• My orange is from completing marathon #4 in Concon just two months prior. 
• Pablo's is probably from when he was a Boy Scout 20 years ago. 

So sunny at this was at about 7pm!

Our destination was Refugio Chileno (private, $$ campsite) and if you follow Pablo's soulful gaze, you'll see where the sun and shade meet. That's the campsite location! 

The path was narrow and the ledge is close to the side of the mountain. If you don't like heights, don't do this hike! I bet this is a trip when it is raining.

When we got to the campsite, it was quite full but we got a great spot in a mini forest and close to a little creek. 

Did I mention we did not have gas or matches? Those were our missing camping supplies! I had read that the lodges may have gas canisters and give them away free as a result of hikers dropping them off. 

We found a spot at a picnic table with some guys that we met along the trail. We laughed a lot with them! They gave us a box of matches! Camping kindness is one of the reasons why I enjoy camping. Kind people camp. Now we just needed gas to start a fire, boil the water and make our ramen.

Camping kindness wins again! The lodge handed over a full can of gas. And the guy may have looked at me crazy for not having one. 

Day 2 of Hiking: The longest hiking day!

total time hiking was about 12 hours. 12 hours of walking with a backpack. and I loved it. 

Most travel guides, blogs and TDP hikers tell you to hike to las Torres for sunrise. I bet it is amazing. But we like vacation pace mornings so we cooked a slow breakfast of yummy oatmeal, chia seeds and dried fruit with some tea and coffee. For the record, I wish I could brush my teeth at a creek every morning. 

Our first hike of the day was an out-and-back to see the Torres. We followed the river into the valley. I am going to sound so cheesy describing this hike but it was magical. We passed through dense forests, crossed wood bridges and drank from baby waterfalls. I felt like I was in the movie The Hobbit or in some Disney forest. This has to be one of my favorite hikes ever because I felt like my spirit met its match in a forest at the end of the world. Each bridge was built a little bit different and each one was fascinating. Whoever built those bridges - some simple and others complex - for all of us to cross should feel proud. Thank you! 

And then....

The math teacher in me wants to ask you - where is the line of reflection? At what point can you fold the real rock to meet its match in the water? 

And even the symbolic Patagonia condor did a fly by just for us. According to Pablo, the condor dropped the leis for its morning visitors. Maybe they do sprinkle some magic...

I could have stayed there for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But the show must go on and today was the longest hike. We have 18 kilometers to trek so we could camp for f.r.e.e. 

Lunch break was in a meadow, shoes off and leis ON. We made people smile :) We even had live music, thanks to the glacier and its avalanches right behind us (above photo). We ate a LOT during that lunch. Lots of dried fruit, PBJ on tortilla wraps and chocolate. Even Pablo ate some chocolate today!

Day 3: Valle frances / French Valley 

We slept in campamiento italiano (free, CONAF) just 100 meters from rushing rapids and under a canopy of trees. Our campsite was one of the last flat spaces left because we arrived pretty late - almost 8pm; most people were cleaning up their dinners when we got there!

Campsite to Campsite : 12 hours. 

The coolest part of the whole day? Pablo and I did it as a team. I think we underestimate how powerful today was in our relationship. We smiled, laughed and sometimes just walked in silence. We ate, took breaks and posed for pictures all with love, patience and joy. We did a physically grueling activity with pura alegria.  Maybe we are supposed to reflect on the habits of mind that allowed us to have such an incredible journey. Maybe we should talk about what makes our work styles mesh so well. Maybe we should talk about the depth of trust we have for each other.

After some chocolate and tea I fell asleep to the sounds of avalanches and the river rapids they produced. I also was freaked that there would be mice trying to eat through our tent all night because of other blogs I had read about the rat problem. We slept rodent-free. 

The hike today was lots of boulder jumping and then walking along a ridge. Today was our only day with the threat of a Patagonia rain storm. She stayed mild and comfortable with just light showers and some wind. I love that Pablo's jacket is Patagonia forest green. That should be a Crayola color. 

We were a bit tired today and I am pretty sure I ate more Snickers today than any other day. This is a there-and-back route and once again, did not disappoint. We walked through full grown trees no taller than my hips and fought strong winds along the ridge. There were viewing points to watch avalanches crush down the sides of the glacier. As we watched, we wondered if we were seeing waterfalls or if they were blocks of ice free-falling. 

Each mountain demanded respect. These peaks are majestic and sexy.  

This is God's amphitheater and He blessed us with an awesome cloud show. 

We had fun running through the rolling trails, side-stepping through a rock field with a fierce wind and scrambling up to Pablo's new nap spot. Of course he took a nap on a rock in Patagonia, who doesn't want to do that? 

French Valley is raw beauty. We are amazed, grateful and full of love for this place! 

Day 3: From French Valley to Paine Grande 

Once we made it down from the French Valley, packed up in a bit of rain, ate, and crossed another suspension bridge we started heading to Paine Grande, our next campsite. 

We were HOT and so when I saw this white rock beach ... we went swimming! 

We had our own private beach! One of the many bonuses of hiking with a basic plan of wake up, eat, hike, eat, set up a tent, sleep and repeat means detours are welcome! This was a delicious dessert of ice cold water in Patagonia. I went swimming in Patagonia! 

Pablo modeling the new look: sun-kissed in Patagonia

This is Midnight Blue Lake or the Lake of Rainbows. We saw a few rainbows - maybe the same one? as we followed the trail around the lake. It is hard to believe that just that morning we were on the other side of those mountains that look like Oreos. 

The forest we were walking through was actually mostly dead from a forest fire the year before. Those red flowers are the shoots of new life. This reminds me of the story that God prunes things in our life so that we open up space for whatever he has planned. Even though pruning back may look damaging or make us feel vulnerable and exposed, God plants something else for us. 

Fun things that happened today...

• I got knocked down from the wind! More like I was pushed down and landed on my booty sitting straight as a board, pack on my back and cracking up.

Day 4: Glacier Grey and a Catamaran

Today was a hilarious day. Probably the most I have laughed hiking in my life. Patagonia delivered her winds to us and she was fierce. Strong. Unpredictable. And it was a blast! 

Why do I look so silly? The wind was so strong! If you had seen me, you would of thought I had finished off a bottle of tequila because I was walking like a drunk college kid. Which led to some not-so-confident climbs and descents. There were some narrow trails along the high ridge and the wind switched directions in a millisecond. I was walking in a semi-squat the whole time. Great for the core and quads! 

We battled fierce winds to get here! That little iceberg is about 1 / 1,000,000,000th of the front shelf of the glacier. And I am pretty sure that iceberg is the size of a few yachts. Why does Pablo look so cool and collected and I look so uncomfortable? I probably thought the wind could blow me over the edge. 

And to think we were swimming in a crystal clear turquoise lake just the day before. Today was our coldest hike and I was grateful for it! I didn't want to have bluebird skies and hot weather the whole time, where's the fun in that? 

We had the most AMAZING time. Pablo was in his element. I was a happy camper. Except for the night the wind was so strong I was convinced our rain cover blew into the lake. Pablo wasn't too happy when I woke him up because I thought the rain was going to drown us. But there was no rain. It was just lightning rods of wind coming from our friend Grey. 

I think we both shine like icebergs under the sun here. Probably because we just finished four days of intense hiking and know that a boat is taking us to a bus that is taking us to another bus and then... showers and a big, warm meal! 

Our next adventure? Packing up our lives in Santiago and heading to San Francisco, California! Next up: the USA together! 

If we can have this much fun living out of a tent, eating ramen and not using a hair dryer for four days, what else can we do together? 

Closing AFP accounts in Chile / Tramite for foreigners

*updated: April 1, 2015 (no joke!)* 

This will be a boring post. But 110% necessary if you live here and ever want to leave the country with the money you earn. Not a fun topic but if just one of us gringos feels ready to take on the tramites in Santiago and gets it done well, I did my job. I helped someone sweat less on the metro, stand in less lines and continue loving this beautiful country at the end of the world, it was worth it.

Closing your AFP account 

If you are a foreigner working in Chile and contributing to an AFP account, you can take out your money. As a US citizen, this is the process I had to do in order to close out my account and get my money. I'm waiting for them to direct deposit my money. 

1. STAMPS. Get a notarized copy of your university degree stamped by the Secretary of State (costs may vary by state?). Then, send that along to the Chilean Embassy in the US with a  money order for $12 US and a pre-paid, pre-addressed envelope for them to stamp it. If possible, get a legal translation in the US because it might be cheaper/faster than Santiago. 
2. DIPLOMA GOES DOWNTOWN. Head to the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores office on Agustinas 1320 (metro La Moneda) for a) stamp to legalize it and b) official translation. The stamp takes 30 seconds but the translation takes 15 work days. You must pay in cash and pay (at least a portion) up front. 
3. US EMBASSY. Make an appointment to receive a Social Security letter with the US Embassy. Be sure to state why you are making the appointment or else you get there, ask for the document and then have to go back to get it. This was free. 
• The US Embassy has a form letter. Make sure that it states "otorque prestaciones en caso de enfermedad, invalidez, vejez, y muerte." And of course, has the official US Embassy timbre
• Take that to the Relaciones Exteriores for a stamp. 
4. WORK CONTRACT. Get a copy of your work contract legalized by a notaría - legalized for your employer's signature and your own signature. Ojo: I went to AFP Modelo and gave them my notarized copy of the contract and they said I did it wrong. Apparently, you need to get your original contract legalized (for your signature and your employer's) and then get that copied and legalized. More on that experience later. Plus, get an anexo to your contract that states “la voluntad del trabajador de mantener la afiliación al sistema provisional extranjero."

• Take your passport and carnet with you to the AFP office. They will make a copy for their records. 

*update* April 1, 2015

How long is the wait from turning in the paperwork to receiving my money? 

This is super important because unless you leave a poder amplio to a friend or family member, you need to take your money out before you leave Chile. It took about three weeks but this is Chile - you could wait two weeks or two months. Also, it is a direct deposit! Hooray!

Avoid doing ANY paperwork between Christmas and February 28. If you live in Chile, you are laughing and angry right now. Am I right? 

Do I get the full amount in my AFP account? 

There is no penalty so you should expect to get your full amount. This could change because the policy of letting foreigners take their money out is very new, only a few years old. 

Does Chile require you to put that money into a comparable pension-fund account in the USofA? 

No! Pay off your college loans, buy a car, save it, donate it to your favorite charity. It is your money. Chile requires you to show that the US has a similar program - social security - because maybe they actually care that you are saving for retirement? I am speculating about the why behind the policy. You have free reign over your money! 

*end of update*

My personal experience? 

I went to the AFP Modelo and spoke with Women #1 and she said that I needed 1) the original contract legalized. Isn't the original already legal? I only had a notarized copy of the original. She also said that I needed a copy of my passport - but that wasn't a requirement on their list of things to do. I asked, "Anything else missing?" She said no.  

I went to the notaría to fix my contract and returned. Then, I spoke with Man #1 and he told me that I needed my employer's signature legalized. WHAT. Woman #1 never mentioned that. I asked, "What else?" He said nothing. So he didn't require a copy of my passport. Funny, they sit right next to each other at work all day long but yet, follow two different versions of paperwork that should have a simple, single procedure.

Two days later I had the original contract legalized twice - for my signature and my employer's - and an extra copy, a copy of my passport and a fake smile.

Turn it in, give them your bank information for a direct deposit and wait for the money to appear! 

Don't forget to take your finiquito to the AFC and receive your seguro de cesantía. 

WAIT, You are probably wondering... Why am I taking all my money out? 

We are MOVING to San Francisco, California!!!!! 

Wish us LUCK!

Villarrica and Nacional Parque Huerquehue

We got to see and feel the essence of spring in the south recently with a quick weekend trip to Villarrica and Pucon.  Blue skies are bluer in Pucon and the water there does more than quench your thirst. It fully and deeply nourishes you. Take a big slurp from any river or waterfall - you may just feel 10 years younger.

I'm alive! And I miss my blog. Life has been a bit busy ever since our epic 4 week vacation to the States. We got back in late September and ever since then, day to day life has been full of joy and gratitude. Unfortunately, I didn't set aside time to write. 

Back to Villarica! I love it for so many reasons: views of the volcano from any angle are stunning, the prehistoric Araucaria trees, the crisp air, and yummy bread. Plus, I've got history here. I was here as a college student with my study abroad friends and we went rafting, hiking, horseback riding, dancing until 4 am and I loved it then and not surprisingly, I am doing the same things ten years later and still loving it! And then a fabulous fruit friend lived here so she gave me the best excuse to come down and visit and play. besos Kels. 

We - Pablo and me, Shaggy and Magda - took the Friday night bus (better than business class in any commercial flight) from Santiago to Villarrica. Shaggy - aka Gustavo - is one of Pablo's friends from high school and he invited us to his family's place. How could we say no to a weekend outside of Santiago and in my all-time favorite place in Chile?

Not a bad breakfast view, right? It was even better with our maté.

No rain in the spring? Sunny, fresh air and so.green.

I felt younger, healthier and smarter all before 8:00 and without coffee. Must be the mythical energy of the volcano.






After renting a car in Pucon we kicked off our Saturday adventures with a Pisco Sour, fresh sopaipillas and then headed out to the Huife hot springs.

The hot springs resort sits along an ice-cold river with lush jungle on both banks. You can move between three different pools that are all kept at different temperatures. Give me HOT! Do you know how great that hot mineral-rich water is for your health? Good. Pablo was asleep within minutes, or seconds, on a lounge chair and I was happily moving from pool to pool with Magda and Shaggy.

Of course we almost lost Magda to the current when we dipped into the river and the current started to push her down and away from us! That stallion of a fiance saved his princess and we happily plunged into the ice cold river again. This place is a slice of heaven. Massages, little treks along the river, a restaurant, the lounge chairs in the grass and lots of wooden benches under big trees for lovers, of course.

 Sunday we woke up to another bluebird sky and it was already warm while we filled up on eggs, coffee and toast. Dreamy, right?

Sunday's adventure: Parque Nacional Huerquehue. This place is special for me. It was my first adventure in Chile ten years ago and I had been dreaming of the day I would get to go back. That first trek was life changing for me. I came from a small town where there are more trees than cars and houses but pulling weeds from the garden was as close as I got to outdoor hiking. So that hike opened the floodgates and I've been hiking and camping ever since. This time, I got to go with a real Chilean Boy Scout!

A mid hike mist? lovely! 

Getting there is no joke. The road is dirt and winding and you climb, climb, climb before descending into a valley and arriving at the park entrance. Not for the folks that freak out about heights and close ledges. 

Once you arrive, pay your park fee and even though there is parking right at the entrance, you can save about 45 minutes of road walking by driving a bit further into the park to another parking area. The park is massive with a handful of trails. There is a 6 hour hike in to get to some hot springs and they say the overnight is magical. Yup, it's on my to-do list for next time.

We wandered through forests with trees taller than most apartment buildings in Santiago and every once in a while, popped out of the thick jungle growth for a spectacular view of the volcano.  The trails are well marked and for Chile, very well maintained. I wonder how so many massive trees that are thousands of years old have survived the consequences of so many volcanic eruptions and earthquakes?

The many shades of green and chatter of the birds kept me fascinated. Want to know me? Being on a muddy trail with a water bottle and trail mix is the easiest way for me to disconnect, feel at home and be myself. At one point I even did some uphill trail running under the shade of the dinosaur trees. A few months ago I had that same urge to run - but up the road to the volcano. Pablo parked the car and read his book while I run up and down the road to the volcano. It's a sexy place, Pucon. 

We got misted as we watched the thundering waterfalls. Trees and vines grew a little bit more. We snacked at a laguna with the rhythmic noise of a giant woodpecker. Something magical happens in Huerquehue. I feel at home in a place that couldn't be farther than the place I say I'm from. 

Education Reform in Chile / Reforma Educativa en Chile

*DISCLAIMER* This is me reflecting and trying to figure out the complex education reform in Chile. 

I love teaching and want to be involved in education for the long haul. What drives me? Every student has a dream and deserves the opportunity to learn how to pursue that dream, no matter their skin color, religion, socioeconomic background, or learning style: all children must have access to a high quality education that can lead them to have a productive, happy life.

Geography, religion, family status, medical history, socioeconomic status, native language, race or any other factor should not impede access to a quality education. Why does it get so complicated? Money, capitalism, politics, religious beliefs, family problems, and health have influenced policy, infrastructure, teacher quality, curriculum and graduation rates. And there are probably more factors, but let's not touch the quality of public school lunches for today.

All that I just said applies to the United States. Does that happen in other countries, like Chile, too?

After one year working at a not-for-profit education foundation in Santiago, I have had quite a few observations. Just some background first. US, our current government structure acts with the believe that all American children deserve to be educated. Sure, we can debate quality across the nation - but we pay taxes so that rich or poor, you'll have a school to go to.

Fenton, MI | In my high school there were students that grew up in mansions on the lake and kids who received free lunch and lived in trailer park homes. We had the whole range of socioeconomic status although the majority were middle class. Diversity of skin color, race, politics or religion? Not enough to construct a pie chart.

Phoenix, AZ | As a teacher working in the public schools of Phoenix, I had black, white and Hispanic students. There were a few Muslim students, refugees from Cambodia who never had gone to school before and were in my 8th grade math class. Students who only ate when they were at school because there wasn't food at home. A few families went on vacations to Disney in California. Diversity was everywhere at this school and I loved it!

Santiago, Chile |  I work with an education foundation that serves Santiago's poorest, socially at-risk students. There are now 3 schools and our office is at the original school in the comuna of Renca. When I drive from the highway to the office, both sides of the street are littered with garbage. There are a lot of street dogs, and I recognize a few of them and smile when I see they've survived another night. A woman has built a shack of a house on the avenue itself. Think of those wide avenues that separate traffic, she's used materials from the neighborhood to string together walls, a roof and now has a little garden. It's actually quite impressive.

Anyway, back to education in Santiago. From what I've seen and heard, the Chilean government and its society doesn't see education as a right for every citizen. It is something you deserve if you can pay for it. Education is a privilege in Chile. 

Did you go to Disneyworld as a kid? That isn't a right as an American citizen (hm, maybe it should be!) but it is a privilege. So, you got to go because your parents and the money and opportunity to take you there. If you're really lucky, you stayed at a hotel in the park or got VIP passes to cut to the front of the lines. Money got you a different experience than driving to the park for the day. Any kid will probably love Disney - but your parents' economic situation determines how you spend your time.

There aren't taxes that go to a public education that open the system for all of its kids.  Don't get me wrong, I totally see that money can pay for a different quality of education in the States, too. But I'm talking about public education.


Chile is a new player in the OECD and will not be considered a developing country in 2015.  Where I work, it looks and feels like a developing country. On the Trends in International Science and Math test, Chilean students earned 462 and students from Florida earned 545 (US: 541). The average score was 500. One important factor: Chile is the only Latin American country to participate in the test.

How do schools work in Chile today? 
There are 3 types of schools: 1) public municipality, run by the local mayor, 2) semi-private schools run by foundations, churches or for-profit organizations, and 3) private schools, run by private foundations or businesses. No student in Santiago is automatically assigned to a school. You must apply to schools and get accepted.

STRUCTURE & MONEY: 

• Municipality schools get a budget based on their community and about $2,300 US/student/year and have the highest rate of students living at or below the poverty line
• Semi-private schools get about $2000 US/student/year and also charge families per student, between $20 US to $160 US. 
• Semi-private schools are FOR PROFIT and can make a profit off the public money, directly or indirectly, from the government. 
• Private schools are FOR PROFIT and receive no money from the government for the students. 

Without a doubt, if your family can pay extra for you to have a bit better of an education. What will they do? Chile has the highest socioeconomic segregation in k-12 schools in all the OECD countries. 

SELECTION: 

Municipality schools accept most students that apply.

Semi-private schools select students based on criteria that they set: religion, political activity of your family, ability to pay the student fees, intelligence/ability tests, etc. 

Private schools select students based on similar criteria but even more selective. Many of these schools are aristocratic and your last name determines if you'll be considered or not.  

A Weekend Getaway: Bahía Inglesa, Chile

Bahia Inglesa is said to be Chile's most beautiful beach. So, why not head there on a long weekend, take an extra 2 days of vacation and enjoy the beach and sounds of the ocean? 

Luckily Lan was running a sale for national flights so we snagged round trip tickets for about $60 each. Located about 800 kilometers north of Santiago, we took a direct flight to Copiapó (famous for the mining accident) and then a short taxi ride to our cabaña at Cabañas Playa Paraiso. 

We rolled up to our cabaña after dusk, the notorious Pacific coast clouds had covered the blanket of stars. With salty ocean air, sand between my toes and a cool ocean breeze, I was in paradise.  Plus, we had an amazing welcome from the owner Eduardo, he's very friendly and helpful! 

Our tropical tiki cabaña was perfect for a romantic beach getaway! Nothing beats a simple breakfast with a dreamy Latin soccer player. Each morning the Pacific clouds slowly folded away from the coast and as they did, the sun shone brilliantly onto the water and sand. Once the rays of sun hit our beach chairs, it was sun bathing time!  

Pablo had just finished busy season at work so he needed this escape and well, I didn't need it but I am grateful that we could celebrate my birthday on the beach! We all want to celebrate our birthdays with lots of love, smiles and good food, right? Check, check and check!

For a few years of my childhood we lived in Stuart, Florida and the beach was a constant part of our life. I remember sitting at the water's edge making sand castles, burying my legs and sifting for pretty shells in the shallow water. Chile's ocean water isn't so inviting.  Pacific Ocean water is cold!  On the count of 3-2-1-3-2-...okay, GO!  

Which type of water entrance do you make? The slow-wader or the all-in diver? 

I start with a wade and a few short breaths then, I pick a wave and dive right in. It's so refreshing under the hot desert sun but just so cold. 

We swam, dove into the waves and kissed like teenagers. Why is it that water is so calming for the soul but can also be a powerful force of energy that invokes fear? What I do feel is safe, free and happy in the water. My soul finds comfort in the rhythm of the ocean waves, the rippling of water with the sand and the stillness underneath the surface. It's like I'm a kid again, splashing and jumping and all the while laughing at myself for feeling so uninhibited. 

And then at night, the sun turns from a hot, watchful eye of energy to a romantic, soft light. Those sunsets each night were magical, just like what I imagine a good-night kiss from my guardian angel would feel like, only that I sense it in my heart. I'm getting to be such a softy these days!

These guys were everywhere on the beach! Unfortunately, the pelicans and vultures beat us to them so there wasn't any fresh crab salad for lunch. What did we eat? Eggs and avocado with toast for breakfast, lunch was rice with a simple salad. Two nights we had a little asado with chicken, beets and peppers on the grill. Simple, semi-camping cooking and it was just right. 

We took walks on the beach - long, romantic strolls and on average, saw 4 people a day. Perfect weather, turquoise water and lots of big scallop and clam shells to collect. We really liked staring at the barnacles that covered the buoys; some were still alive and slowly stuck out their slimy muscle from their black weathered shell. At one restaurant we even saw people eating them. That's too gross for me. 

Along one short stretch of the 4 km beach we walked through this red algae and it smelled like dirty ocean and a bit of dead fish. Not pleasant but it was so pretty! 

"Ostiones vivos" Of course I didn't know that live scallops meant still ALIVE. I just thought that was the Chilean way of saying fresh scallops. Nope. Those translucent, buttery, delicious scallops started pulsing. Since their only defense system is pushing air between their two shells to propel them across the ocean floor, they were trying. 

I ate one and Pablo goes, "you know those are alive and moving, right?" WHAT. NO. I played it cool though and said, "Yeah, I know...wait, WHAT?" 

And then I saw it. The pulsing white muscle. One was a fighter. I squeezed the juice from a whole lemon onto that one and let it sit for a while so I'd forget which one it was. Yes, I ate them all and each one was so incredibly good!

The famous Bahia Inglesa beach! We actually never swam here, it wasn't hot enough to take the plunge. We did enjoy the view with a few Pisco Sours at a beachside restaurant. Even though it was Easter weekend, the tiny tourist part of town was not too busy. I'd recommend going in late March to avoid the massive summer crowds but still take advantage of good beach weather. 

Should you go to Bahia Inglesa for the beach? Imagine you're in the middle of a desert, surrounded by pink and orange mountains with sandy hills for a landscape and then a bright blue and turquoise bay shines under the hot northern Chile sun. Plus, fresh scallops are more abundant than bread! 

Once again, I'm fascinated by the striking natural landscape in Chile. Mountains, arid desert and sparkling ocean waters combine to give us this beautiful beach getaway. Yes, I'd go again!